R Lazy S Ranch

In 1910, Elsie M. James (née Olsen) received Homestead Patent #145265 for 151.33 acres along what is now known as the Moose-Wilson Road. The homestead was located just north of the White Grass Ranch Road. At the time the patent was given, the White Grass wouldn’t be created for another three years. This would have been a very quiet piece of land, with only the beginnings of the JY Ranch about a mile south. Just a year later in 1911, Mrs. James sold her homestead to Owen Wister. The Wister family was looking for a private homestead of their own after staying at the JY Ranch. The Wisters built their own cabin on the property in 1912. There are rumors claiming that Wister wrote his famous The Virginian here. Unfortunately the dates do not add up, as The Virginian was published in 1902. The cabin remained on the property until 1974 when Grand Teton National Park arranged for it to be dismantled and reassembled in Medicine Bow, Wyoming. It remains there today, part of the Medicine Bow Museum.

The Wister family’s time here was tragically cut short when in 1913, Mrs. Wister died from childbirth complications. Owen Wister did not return to the Jackson Hole cabin, but he did retain ownership until 1920 when he sold the land to the Roesler, Laidlaw, and Spears families. These three families developed the land into a private family retreat, naming it the R Lazy S Ranch for each of their surnames. In 1928, Chauncey Spears added an additional 40 acres through a homestead patent. This would have been one of the last patents awarded in Jackson Hole. In 1927, President Calvin Coolidge issued Executive Order #4685, effectively closing much of the remaining public lands in Jackson Hole to homesteading. The RLS families built some of the main ranch infrastructure and maintained the property until they sold it to Robert and Florrelle McConaughy in 1946.

Robert and Florrelle began renovations to open the property as a dude ranch. Some cabins needed updating and others needed to be expanded to provide enough room for guests. The next summer in 1948, the McConaughys opened for their first official season; they first appeared in “Dude Ranches Out West” in 1949. This booklet was printed by the Union Pacific Railroad to entice travelers to utilize railroads in their family vacations to the “wild west.” Robert and Florrelle took an unusual step in their cabin renovations in that they added electricity and plumbing with hot water. Most dude ranches did not provide these modern amenities, believing that part of the appeal of the western vacation was the rustic accommodations. They could house up to 40 dudes and kept the operations small intentionally. The McConaughys had been guests of the nearby Bear Paw Ranch and understood the appeal to having a smaller, more intimate dude ranch. Fewer dudes allowed for a more personalized experience. The guests could connect better with each other and the owners, creating a family-like atmosphere.

Robert Sr. and Florrelle had two children, Robert Jr. (Bob) and Geraldine (Shonnie), who both lived and worked on the ranch. In 1953, the land was sold to Grand Teton National Park under a lease lasting twenty years. This was just three years after the last expansion of the park in 1950 to its current borders. It was ten years after the Jackson Hole National Monument was formed in 1943, which included the land surrounding the R Lazy S. The land was in a valuable location on the northern portion of the Moose-Wilson Road, with Snake River frontage; its stunning views of the Tetons was the primary reason that the property was sought after by the park. Bob and his wife Claire would take over operations after Bob’s father died in 1963.

Bob and Claire inherited a well-run ranch in 1964 and had few modifications and remodeling to do. They kept numbers at 40-45 dudes and many of the original families continued to come. Leading up to the last year of the lease, the Snake River was threatening to flood the property. Help came in the form of a unique partnership with previous ranch guests who wanted to preserve the community and character of the R Lazy S. Howard and Cara Stirn were former R Lazy S dudes who had acquired their own Jackson Hole ranch, just four miles south.  In the winter of 1972, ten buildings were moved down the Snake River dike to the new location, and the next summer the R Lazy S was re-opened. Bob and Claire had two daughters, Carin and Kim, who lived and worked on the ranch. In 1975 the McConaughy-Stirn partnership was made official when the Stirns purchased the ranch operation and the McConaughys continued to manage daily activities. This arrangement was kept until Bob’s death and Claire’s retirement in 2002. The McConaughy name is still connected to the ranch through their daughter Carin, a wrangler.

Bob was also active in the Jackson Hole Rodeo, purchasing the contract with partner Hal Johnson from 1969-1979. After a brief hiatus, Bob again held the rodeo contract from 1987-1993. He traveled around the country finding the best rodeo horses, reveling in their wild spirit. It was during one of these trips to Cedar City, Utah that he happened upon an abandoned donkey, who he intended to use a pack animal. Upon her arrival to the ranch, Angel was met with some skepticism over what a dude ranch could possibly do with a donkey. Her use as a pack animal was short-lived, hard labor was not in her wheelhouse. Undeterred, Bob insisted that there was a place for Angel at the R Lazy S, and she quickly won over every guest and crew member with her sweet temperament. She became the self-appointed sentinel of the barn and the “most photographed” animal on the ranch. Angel experienced no lack of love and treats during her 25 years on the ranch. After a full life keeping the ranch in order, Angel passed away in the fall of 2014. Her years in service at the ranch rival those of any of her human counterparts.

Cara Stirn initially came out to Jackson Hole with her parents, Kelvin and Eleanor Smith, and sister Lucia to stay at the Bear Paw Ranch in the 1940s. Cara later married Howard Stirn, and they had Bradley, Lucia, Kelvin, and Ellen. Cara would return to Jackson Hole after her daughter Lucia came to the Teton Valley Ranch Camp in the early 1960s. They stayed at the R Lazy S after they retrieved Lucia and the family fell in love with the valley. The Stirns would return annually when their son Kelvin also discovered the Teton Valley Ranch Camp. Howard and Cara eventually decided that they wanted to own their own ranch in Jackson Hole. They discovered that Cara’s parents already had land in the valley that had been surveyed for a potential 60-house subdivision. Kelvin Smith (Cara’s father) knew he wanted to save the land from development and purchased it. He then sold it to Howard and Cara in 1972, for use as a family ranch. It had initially been called the Aspen M Ranch, for the Mosley family. Previous landowners included the Linns, Colbrans, and Hansens.  The Stirns would eventually acquire 323 acres, renaming it the Aspen S Ranch. Robert Goulet of Camelot fame was a neighbor, and family friend, who sold the Stirns 40 acres in 1978. Howard and Cara were early advocates of conservation in the valley, and became the first to donate their land to the Jackson Hole Land Trust in 1981. Today the ranch is owned in part by the Land Trust, R Lazy S, Aspen S and Stirn family.

The Aspen M Ranch buildings were incorporated into the Aspen S and later R Lazy S ranches. The most prominent were the lodge and barn, along with the caretaker’s cabin. The tack sheds, Spruce, Sage, Rendezvous, Aspen S, and Rafters cabins were all already located on the ranch. The R Lazy S cabins that were moved to the property were the Main Office (formerly McConaughy), Teewinot (Laidlaw), Teton, Willows, crew bathhouse, dorm, Gate and Little Mac. The Stirns and the McConaughys operated the ranch in a unique partnership that lasted for thirty years. Some of the cabins on the ranch have long histories that connect the ranch to the entire valley. The Crew Moc Shop was once owned by Ellen Walker, a locally famous women’s clothing shop owner located in the town of Jackson across from the Wort Hotel. The housekeeping shed was once located at Stephen Leek‘s (nationally renowed for his work saving the wild elk population in Jackson Hole) Lodge (today Leek’s Marina). A crew cabin came from the old Alpine Motel in Jackson.

Kelvin “Kelly” and his wife Nancy were living in California when they decided to return to the R Lazy S and build a summer home. Shortly afterwards, they moved to the ranch full time with their sons Matthew and William. Kelly began taking over more of the ranch duties, until he and Nancy became Directors in 1997. Howard and Cara continued to be involved with guest operations and hosting duties. In 2012, Kelly and Nancy assumed full ownership of the ranch.

The ranch still houses 40-45 dudes, to retain the small community atmosphere. The ranch is designed to facilitate the optimal family experience; with activities geared toward the whole family, and some kids-only activities. The minimum stay is a week, however longer visits are encouraged. This originates from the early dude ranches that required a two-week minimum stay. The Stirns continue to welcome old and new generations of families to the ranch. The have a unique tradition of giving out belt buckles to families and individuals who reach certain milestones at the ranch. To date, they have given out 333 ten-year bronze buckles and 108 twenty-year silver buckles. The R Lazy S has a unique legacy of family and community. The perseverance of the owners, crew and guests to keep the ranch alive is something to be admired. The R Lazy S will celebrate its 70th year of operation in 2017.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Jackson Lake Lodge

In 1955 the Jackson Lake Lodge opened and became the first example of modern, International style architecture in a National Park. The design was intended to express a sense of modernism and the creation of a new era after the close of World War II. The large, flat, concrete and glass structure was made to blend in with the landscape as much as its Rustic style predecessors, but the use of mass-made manufactured materials sent a different message. It reflected the strength of the economy, that the war had not depleted the country’s resources, and the nation was able to increase production. The Jackson Lake Lodge was seen as a symbol of economic growth and success, ushering in a new era of architectural design in the Mission 66 program. The Lodge was intended to keep National Parks in the forefront of American culture and tourism, another boost to the post-war economy. The Lodge also offered modern amenities that many dude ranches had not yet adopted. As a resort, the Jackson Lake Lodge offered, and catered to, a very different type of vacation experience. The ability to drive the family automobile and see multiple sites at a time and rest in a comfortable room with electricity and plumbing was becoming expected. The National Park Service was mindful of their future in the minds of the American public and hoped to adopt the modernistic values of “progress, efficiency, health and innovation.”

The Jackson Lake Lodge is operated by the Grand Teton Lodge Company. Backed by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., it had originally been situated located in the nearby homesteader-settled town of Moran. Ben Sheffield first opened the Teton Lodge in 1903. It was run by the Teton Lodge Company, which became the Grand Teton Lodge Company when Rockefeller purchased the majority of the town in 1929. With few options for tourist housing in the valley, Rockefeller decided to keep the town of Moran and the Teton Lodge operational. He began working on plans to construct the new hotel with the nationally recognized architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood in 1950. Over the next five years until the Lodge was opened, the town of Moran was removed from the landscape and moved about 11 miles to the west. The remaining land was regraded and re-vegetated, removing all traces of its former location. The “ramshackle” town was an eyesore in the planned view shed planned for the new Lodge. Many of the original cabins built by Sheffield were moved to Colter Bay, and those that were in rough shape were burned.

The differences between the old Teton Lodge and the new Jackson Lake Lodge were stark and the new Lodge had many early detractors. A number of valley residents saw it as outlandish, cold and unfeeling. It lacked the warmth and traditional craftsmanship of the earlier log cabins. It catered specifically to tourists and the growing wealth of the middle class. Many locals felt it was intended only for outsiders, and held none of the cultural value associated with the history of the valley; clearly the idea of modern architecture had not yet penetrated the aesthetic senses of the general populace. Rather than distract from the outside, the building was designed to “bring the outside in.” An appreciation of the view was only possible when standing inside the lobby behind the large plate glass wall of windows. Supporters were quick to point out that the steel, concrete and glass structure was fireproof. In 2003, the Lodge was designated as a National Historic Landmark for its contributions to the modernization of National Park Service infrastructure. This is the highest level of designation that a historic building can receive, the Murie Center near Moose is the only other National Historic Landmark in the valley.

Despite the prominence of the Jackson Lake Lodge, the legacy of the Rockefellers, and the early successes of the Sheffields in Moran, many forget that there was a precursor that stood on the same spot. The “old” Jackson Lake Lodge was built in 1922 and owned by Eugene Amoretti’s Amoretti Hotel and Camp Company. Originally, this Lodge was considered to be the first modern hotel in the valley. The main lodge and many of the log cabins had both hot and cold running water, with full bathrooms. The cabins and lodge were purchased by Rockefeller’s Snake River Land Company in 1930, and kept operational until 1953 when the resort was demolished.

While no evidence remains of the original town of Moran, or the original Jackson Lake Lodge, their memory is not forgotten. Today’s Jackson Lake Dam Picnic area and associated parking lots are built on top of the site of the old town of Moran. For those with a keen eye, some hidden clues remain in the form of leftover strawberry plants, and pieces of concrete that have emerged through layers of soil due to the freeze-thaw cycle. The “ghost of Moran” is rumored to be nearby in the form of an old rhubarb plant that escaped the extensive regrading activities. Now considered a historic resource, the Jackson Lake Lodge continues to be one of the most visited areas in the valley, carrying on a legacy first created by Ben Sheffield over a century ago.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Double Diamond Ranch

Joseph S. Clark, Jr., a future senator of Pennsylvania and mayor of Philadelphia, and Frank R. Williams, a wilderness guide, first met in 1923 on a pack trip. Clark was part of the group that Williams was leading. Like many before him, he quickly fell in love with the Jackson Hole landscape. A fast friendship grew between the two men, who quickly began planning their own dude ranch operation. They decided to focus on high school and college-aged boys, rather than adults or families. This may have been to ensure good numbers, and less competition from the nearby Bar BC and other sought-after dude ranches.

Williams’ father was a land surveyor and began combing over maps for an ideal location, he found a tiny, 12.97-acre lot of forgotten land just south of Jenny Lake. Williams’ wife Emma, settled on the land (Frank had about 400 acres of land near the future Teton Village, and was ineligible to apply for another homestead). Due to homesteading law, and Clark’s impending enrollment at the Harvard Law School that fall, Emma and Frank would fulfill the necessary “proving-up” requirements. They had to cultivate the land, build a cabin and maintain residence for 5 years (thus Emma being the one to file on the homestead, and not Joseph Clark Jr.).

Over the winter, Emma and Frank were busy overseeing the planning for a large main lodge (dining room and kitchen) and twelve small sleeping cabins. Joseph was also busy signing up a group of 19 young boys who would be the first dudes. His connections to the wealthy families in Philadelphia and the success of the Bar BC in the same circles made quick work of enrollment. However, by the spring of 1924, winter was late in receding from the valley. The boys were due to arrive on July 1 and snowbanks prevented construction through mid-May. Despite the mounting workload, and the frenzy to find and house pack horses, by the time the boys arrived, everything was in order. The locals who provided the work were used to this quick turnaround, and were skilled log craftsmen. Two years later in 1926, Clark and Williams purchased an additional 40 acres of land from Jimmy Manges, who ran the adjacent X Quarter Circle X Ranch. Because of the classic partnership of a western wrangler and wealthy eastern Philadelphian, the Double Diamond Dude Ranch enjoyed a high success rate. The westerner provided the know-how and the easterner provided the funds, and clientele. By the next year, they expanded to 27 boys.

The Ranch continued to be successful and grew through the 1930s, with only a $100 deduction in fees during the Depression. Joseph Clark Jr. sold his shares to Harry and Nola Brown, to pursue a career in politics that required his full attention. Clark kept an acre with his private cabin, but his management of the dude ranch ceased. Williams built new log cabins for the boys, replacing the earlier tent platforms. With this change, dudes of all ages were welcome, and it was no longer just a boys ranch. The cabins were updated, more comfortable structures than the tent platforms and positioned for privacy. Hot and cold running water was installed in the main lodge. In the 1940s the ranch underwent another modernization, offering weekly rates rather than season-long. Weekly rates were $25-35, whereas the season rate was $700. This change was designed to appease the new type of tourist looking for less of a summertime commitment to one place, who wanted to see as much as possible during their vacations.

Families often stayed three to six weeks, and the new pricing tier was successful. The ranch continued to attract seasonal families and newcomers until Frank Williams’ death in 1964. The property was sold to Grand Teton National Park, and the Browns held a lease to continue operations. This lasted a few short years; in 1970 they relinquished their lease to the park. The American Alpine Club saw an opportunity and renewed the lease for use as a base of operations for a new type of venture: mountaineering. Jackson Hole quickly became known for the Tetons and the challenges posed by their high peaks. Many mountain climbers from around the world were attracted to the sweeping views the mountains offered. Previously, the Jenny Lake Climbers’ camp had been operating since the 1950s. With the new lease at the old Double Diamond, the climbing community had found a permanent home the valley. The Double Diamond Ranch is still operated today by the American Alpine Club. Tragedy struck in 1985 when the Taggart/Beaver Creek fire destroyed many of the original dude cabins. The main lodge was spared, but 8 buildings were burned to the ground. The National Park Service and the American Alpine Club decided to save the remaining buildings, and rebuilt new facilities. Climbers from around the world still visit Jackson Hole and stay at the Double Diamond Dude Ranch.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Leek’s Lodge

Steven Leek first entered the Jackson Hole valley working as a trapper in 1888. At 30 years old, he had immigrated to the United States as a child, received education in Illinois and worked on a ranch in Nebraska. Upon arriving in Jackson Hole, Leek resolved to stay in the isolated and empty mountain valley, becoming one of the valley’s first permanent residents. He earned a living as a hunting guide, camping in various places and eventually building a small lodge on Leigh Lake. By 1898, he was ready to settle more permanently and filed on a homestead on Flat Creek, south of the emerging town of Jackson, then called Marysvale. His homestead was in an ideal location, with plentiful water access and quality soil. He began cattle ranching to supplement his income as a hunting guide. Over the next few decades, his cattle ranch would expand to 400 acres.

Leek’s prime homestead location in the open fields on Flat Creek and eventual fencing of 400 acres caused him to recognize a significant and growing problem in the valley. With the number of homesteads more than tripling since he first arrived in the valley, fences were crisscrossing the open areas like mazes. This made it very difficult for the wildlife to continue on established migration routes, and livestock filled up the best grazing areas. The result was thousands of stranded and starving elk, concentrated in groups and spreading disease. Leek recognized the value of these animals and the importance of their habitat through the lens of a hunting guide. With so many elk weak and dying, there would soon be little left to continuing the thriving big game hunting business in the valley. He was one of the first in the valley to suggest that there needed to be regulations and rules for how many animals each outfitter could claim. Without management for the health and wellbeing of the herd, Leek foresaw what few didn’t: there were limits to what felt like an infinite supply of wildlife.

In 1909, homesteaders in Jackson Hole began raising money to purchase hay to feed the elk in the winter. Those who could afford it donated any surplus hay. Leek regularly led hunting trips for the founder of Eastman Kodak, George Eastman, who gave Leek a camera as a thank you. Leek decided to use his camera to document the plight of the elk and to use the images on a national campaign to save the Jackson Hole herds. He is credited as being one of the first to recognize the negative effects of human settlement on wildlife, and one of the first to use photography as a medium of education. His numerous lectures, articles and photographs that were distributed to all the major publications in the county led to the founding of the National Elk Refuge on August 10, 1912. It is thought that without the efforts of Leek, the elk in Jackson Hole would have disappeared.

By 1924, Leek had established a successful guiding career, and decided to expand his business. He found a quiet cove on Jackson Lake, but the land fell under the jurisdiction of the Forest Service. Unlike his homestead, this federal land could not be purchased. Leek instead applied for a special use permit to build and manage “a resort for the accommodation of tourists” which would include a lodge, store and gas station. The Forest Service approved the application in 1925, and construction began on a central lodge and several smaller cabins. Although the property would mirror the appearance of a dude ranch, its use was much different. By 1927 the construction was complete and Leek would host his first clients.

During the summers, Leek’s Lodge was a summer camp for boys called “Teton Camp for Boys” and in the fall, it served as a home base for guided hunting trips. Leek operated the lodge with the assistance of both his sons, Holly and Lester. Summer camp activities included hiking, hunting, boating, fishing, and pack trips. Mindful of his earlier conservation success in the valley, Leek also established a “wildlife studies” program for the boys. Rates were $5.00 a day for all meals, a bed, and a boat. The lodge could hold up to 25 boys aged 14 through 19, from June through August. In 1934, Leek retired and suffered the loss of his son Lester. Holly kept up the operations as a hunting and fishing lodge, but ceased the boys camp activities. In 1943, the permit was renewed under the National Park Service with the establishment of the Jackson Hole National Monument. Shortly after World War II, Holly Leek sold the permit to Dr. N. E. Morad who kept Leek’s Lodge operational. The permit would change hands several times until Signal Mountain Lodge acquired the rights in 1975. The National Park Service removed the smaller cabins and kept the main lodge intact.

Today, only the crumbling remains of the main lodge chimney exists. A fire in 1998 burned the lodge to the ground, and the once bustling hunting camp gave way to the popular Leek’s Marina. Steven Leek’s homestead still exists south of Jackson, but it is now a private residence. Despite these two hidden pieces of valley history, Leek’s name lives on in his contributions to the welfare of the wildlife in the valley. The National Elk Refuge stands testament to his tireless efforts, and reminds us of the valley’s most important resources.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Wolff Ranch

In 1870, Emile Wolff emigrated from his native Belgium to the United States. He enlisted in the Army, and was stationed at Fort Hall in Idaho. During his service he ventured into Jackson Hole to deliver supplies to the doomed Lt. Gustavus C. Doane* expedition. Despite the foul winter weather, Wolff was impressed by the small valley. Upon his discharge, he began homesteading in Teton Valley, Idaho. Here he became involved with another infamous Jackson Hole story, still told around the campfire. He made the acquaintance of four other German immigrants, one of whom had gone to school with Wolff. The four men were inquiring after supplies they needed for gold panning on the Snake River in Jackson Hole. Wolff directed them towards a neighbor, and wished them luck. Later that summer, Wolff was about to begin haying when he was startled to view a man on foot coming across his fields. Horses were the primary mode of transportation, so the approach was unusual, but not unheard of. When the figure got closer, Wolff recognized him as John Tonnar, one of the four gold prospecting Germans he had encountered earlier in the year. Wolff was surprised to see Tonnar again, who asked for work and a place to sleep. Acquiescing, Wolff asked many questions about Tonnar’s former partners and got only “unsatisfactory” answers. There was plenty of work to be done with haying, and Wolff was more glad to have the assistance rather than question Tonnar’s unusual manners.

A month later, a sheriff and a posse came upon Wolff at home while Tonnar worked out in the field. The sheriff informed Wolff that they had found Tonnar’s three partners murdered and buried under rocks in the Snake River. Wolff was aghast that he had harbored a man capable of murder, and sent the posse into the field after Tonnar. He was captured and brought to court, while Wolff was sent to identify the bodies. After a confirmation that they were the same men Tonnar had been with earlier that summer, a trial in Evanston began. Despite all of the evidence stacked against him, Tonnar was acquitted. It was determined that due to no witnesses, the evidence was only circumstantial. Tonnar then disappeared, and many theories abound as to his guilt and his future. Today, the bend of the River where the three men were discovered is known as “Deadman’s Bar.” Despite these events, Wolff packed up and moved to Jackson Hole where he homesteaded along Flat Creek, adjacent to the Robert Miller homestead. Miller was another character whose reputation is larger than the man. His reported early involvement with local outlaw Teton Jackson and later involvement with John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and the Snake River Land Company cause a lot of disagreement over his true intentions. He did open the first Bank of Jackson Hole and his wife, Grace, was Mayor for several years.

Finding success on Flat Creek, Wolff began looking for a homestead that was farther from the bustle of town. After lands opened up along Spread Creek, in the northern half of the valley, Wolff jumped on a homestead claim. Just south of the future Elk Ranch, Wolff had quality land and easy access to water. He dug a ditch from Spread Creek himself, and received a patent for his homestead in 1906. Prior to this, he briefly returned to Belgium in order to find a wife and married Marie Bettendorff in 1893. Despite their advantageous location, the Wolff Ranch was run within the limits of the original 160 acre homestead. The Wolffs were rare in the valley in that they were successful, but not looking to expand. They also never sold out to their neighbors on the Elk Ranch who expanded quickly. When the Snake River Land Company came knocking in the 1920s, the Wolffs declined the offer to sell. It was obvious that they took great pride in their home, and maintained a modesty that would continue to define the property. To bring in more cash, Marie operated the Elk Post Office for 17 years and Emile sold furs that he trapped. He would also become one of the first Forest Rangers in the valley.

In 1913, Emile Jr. was born in Luxembourg (Marie made sure her children were born in Belgium to ensure their qualification for an inheritance from her family). This proved more expensive in terms of travel than the final inheritance that came their way. Emile, Jr. was better known by the family as “Stippy.” He attended the local school at Elk, and assisted with various ranch chores. In addition to his formal schooling, he began violin lessons at the age of seven. His mother was a skilled singer, and his father had acquired the old piano from John Sargent’s Merymere in Moran. The family became known in the valley for their talent and often played at the many community gatherings. Despite loving the ranch, and the life that came with it, Stippy was never much of a rancher. After his father’s death in 1928, he continued to live on the ranch and assist his mother with chores but he earned a living working odd jobs throughout the valley.

Stippy’s decision not to become a full rancher was probably due in part to the fact that the family’s small 160 acre property was unable to produce much cash flow as the operation so small. Now in the 20th century, cash and business acumen were increasingly in-demand. The family continued playing music at nearly every dance hall and dance event around the valley. In the 1930s offers by visitors and area officials to purchase the small ranch were vehemently rebuffed by Marie Wolff. The family held no official stance on the subject of park expansion or federal government involvement, probably due to their ranch being located on the eastern boundary of Jackson Hole. Despite being adjacent to the Elk Ranch, which was run by the Snake River Land Company, the Wolffs head fast to their land.

In the 1940s, many changes would continue to form the Wolff Ranch. Stippy married Beryl Adams and in 1941, they were deeded one acre from Marie on which to build their house. During World War II, Stippy was called away to work in defense construction. When he returned, the ranch was transitioning away from running cattle to hosting tourists. With the majority of the valley now protected under the Jackson Hole National Monument, grazing options were limited and beef prices were no longer sustainable for such a small ranch. During this time dude ranching and extended family vacations out west were highly desirable. With the majority of Europe recovering from the war, many Americans were turning their sights inward to celebrate the beautiful spaces their own county had to offer. The valley had a long history of dude ranching, and by the 1940s this had evolved into shorter stays and looser requirements for guests. Prospective guests no longer had to request a letter of recommendation from a mutual friend of the ranch owner, nor did one have to provide references on the personality of their family. The Wolffs saw an opportunity to offer small overnight cottages, offering the advantage of overnight stays. The rest of the valley was transitioning away from the traditional weeks-long dude ranch stay to accommodate families who wanted to see and do as much as possible. The construction of U.S. Highway 89, the Wolff Ranch was now directly on of the main transportation routes in the valley.

In 1954, Marie Wolff died and the property passed to Stippy, his brother Willie and two sisters. They expanded the small motor court (as they were called, a small circle of cottages with parking out front for automobiles) and added a gas pump. The old main ranch house became a dining room and kitchen. Stippy and Beryl ran the majority of the business, with Beryl having the primary responsibility. The family business continued to be popular until the 1970s when small roadside motor courts were declining in favor of large hotel-based resorts. The construction of the Jackson Lake Lodge and Colter Bay campground near Moran drew a lot of the Wolffs’ former clientele away. In 1978 Stippy and Beryl sold the ranch to the National Park Service in return for a lease that would terminate on December 31, 1999. Sadly, in 1988 Stippy would meet an early death in a logging accident, and Beryl remained on the property for only a year after that. The winters were becoming difficult to bear, and she spent most of her time in town. In another twist of fate, she died on January 3, 2000 only days after the lease had ended and the property formally transferred to Grand Teton National Park.

*Doane had commissioned the expedition hoping to become famous. Despite the Snake River having already been surveyed, Doane was seeking the fame of the earlier Hayden expeditions. His hubris caused him to overlook details like bringing enough supplies for the rugged terrain and underestimating the harshness of winter. The expedition nearly starved to death and required rescue and immediate recall to Fort Ellis.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Moose Entrance Kiosk

Built between 1934 and 1939, the Moose entrance kiosk was the first entrance station in Grand Teton National Park. It was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), a government organization created by President Roosevelt’s New Deal plan. CCC workers arrived in Jackson Hole in 1933 and built a camp just south of Jenny Lake and began several construction projects on visitor services and administration buildings for the new Grand Teton National Park. Projects included the Jenny Lake campground and comfort stations, Beaver Creek Administration housing and outbuildings, and the Moose entrance kiosk. The kiosk was constructed using National Park Service standardized plans, intended to save on material costs and allow the emphasis to remain on the natural environment. The use of natural materials like logs and wooden shingles paired with a lack of decorative elements allowed the building to blend in with the landscape.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

 

The kiosk was originally located much closer to Jenny Lake, due to Grand Teton’s original eastern boundaries being in the Jenny Lake area. In the 1960s after the park’s final expansion in 1950, the kiosk was moved further south to its current location. While it is no longer in use, it remains adjacent to the two current entrance stations in Moose. In 1934, Grand Teton visitation was at about 75,000 tourists. By the 1960s, visitation numbers were up to 2 million. The small, outdated kiosk was experiencing overuse that was contributing to increased deterioration. The rustic corner notching style extending out from the building was also becoming hazardous due to the increase in vehicle traffic. It would take until the late 1980s before two new entrance stations were built to accommodate the huge increase in tourists and provided more comfort for the rangers. Today, more than 3 million visitors pass through both the Moose and Moran entrance stations to visit Grand Teton National Park. Many are unaware of the original 1930s entrance kiosk, but its historic importance is not forgotten.

JY Dude Ranch

In 1906 Louis Joy filed for 160 acres under the Desert Land Act of 1877 on the south side of Phelps Lake. After making the necessary improvements and receiving a patent for the land, he filed a cash entry on an adjacent 119 acre homestead. Only a year later, in 1908, the ranch hosted the first five dudes in the Jackson Hole valley. All five were friends or acquaintances of a young man from Philadelphia with a degree from Princeton University. Maxwell Struthers Burt came from a wealthy family in Philadelphia and had a very different upbringing than Louis Joy. Joy had been born and raised in the East, but he moved to a large ranch in the Southwest when he turned 18. There he learned the ranch skills of a cowboy, foreman, cook and guide. Between Burt’s wealthy connections in the east and Joy’s knowledge and ranching skills it seemed they had formed the perfect partnership. Over the next three years, however, the men shared a strained relationship at the JY. Initially promised a five-year option to buy a half-interest in the ranch, it soon became clear to Burt that this would not come to fruition. In 1911, frustrated and feeling used for this social contacts, Burt split from Louis Joy and the JY Ranch with the intention of starting off on his own.

Fortunately for Joy, Burt’s departure did not affect business at the ranch. He had already established a solid base of seasonal dudes and could do without his former partner’s contacts. Running the ranch on his own proved to be a daunting task and in 1916 Joy leased the ranch to Henry S. A. Stewart, who was from Pittsburg. By 1920 Stewart had purchased the ranch from Joy and expanded his land holdings with adjacent parcels in order to begin raising cattle. By 1927, Stewart had grown the JY to become the largest dude ranch in the valley. The ranch could host up to 65 dudes at a time, which was quite a feat considering most could only handle 10-20. Rates were $65.00 per week, with meals, lodging, boats and saddle horses included. With such a prime location at the base of Phelp’s Lake, the JY could offer a large variety of activities. These included swimming, fishing, boating, mountain climbing, horseback riding, hunting and camping.

Stewart proved to be a shrewd businessman and able ranch owner, and offered unusual comforts for the valley. He purchased a second nearby ranch in order to supply the JY with fresh garden vegetables, dairy and beef. Beef was the valley’s prime export, most locals ate meats like Elk rather than their only source of income. To be able to offer his dudes fresh beef was considered a luxury found nowhere else in the valley. Another specialty that began at the JY was private motor tours of the Jackson Hole valley and Yellowstone National Park. For an extra $50.00 dudes could be driven to some of the most well-known natural sites and geysers in the country. The JY was nothing if not self-sufficient. Stewart also operated a general store that sold fishing licenses, camping clothes, tobacco, candy, cigarettes and medicine. This was exceedingly rare for a dude ranch, and the JY was the only dude ranch in the valley to operate such a convenience.

Stewart once again proved his ability to keep the ranch running in top shape during the depression of the 1930s. He raised rates to $75.00 a week and lowered capacity. Most other ranches in the valley were cutting their rates in half and hosting well under their normal capacities. This plan kept the JY afloat during the economic hardships, but Stewart chose to sell the ranch to the Snake River Land Company in 1932 for $49,000. The listing included a farm, a homestead and 20 dude cabins. The ranch would continue to survive under private ownership with John D. Rockefeller and his family.

Over the next several decades, the Rockefellers would continue to visit the valley and kept this ranch as their summer retreat. They eventually donated portions of the vast lands Stewart had amassed to the Grand Teton National Park. In 2001 the last parcel was handed over to the National Park Service, the donations totaling more than 3,000 acres. In 2008 the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve was opened to the public for continued enjoyment of the natural areas the Rockefellers had kept private for the last 76 years. The original ranch buildings have been moved to different locations, some were given to the Grand Teton National Park and are still in use today. The rest were moved to the Rockefellers’ private ranch that is located outside of the park boundaries.

The JY was the first and the largest ranch in the Jackson Hole valley. The success of the JY would open the door for all of the other dude ranches that were created over the next few years. The Bar BC, created by Louis Joy’s former partner, Struthers Burt would be directly responsible for the creation of no less than 12 other ranches and homesteads. Louis Joy and the JY Ranch would be responsible for a movement that would later define Jackson Hole and create one of the best-known valleys for dude ranching.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Jackson Hole Wildlife Park

In 1940 the Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. was formed out of the Snake River Land Company. The intention was to distance the Preserve from the bad press surrounding the Snake River Land Company and impending controversy over the creation of the Jackson Hole National Monument (1943). Those involved with the Preserve announced their new initiative as a partnership with the National Park Service, formed in the name of conservation and scientific research. In Jackson Hole, the Preserve went to great lengths to disassociate with the “big business” rumors that had plagued the Land Company. After the Jackson Hole National Monument had been created, and a series of movements to remove its federal designation failed, the Jackson Hole Wildlife Park opened under the auspices of the Preserve on July 19, 1948.

The purpose of the Wildlife Park was two-fold: to increase tourist numbers coming to the newly-designated National Monument, and to offer research opportunities on the area’s megafauna. Tourists were now guaranteed a look at the region’s most charismatic ungulates, bison and elk. When the first homesteaders arrived in the mid-1880s, there were no bison left in the valley. The Wildlife Park would be the first to re-introduce the species into the ecosystem. Visitors to the Wildlife Park would drive up to the northern portion of the valley, to a dirt parking lot (still extant) just to the east of today’s Oxbow Bend turnout. There, in a large fenced meadow stood the resident herds of bison and elk. The Wildlife Park’s location was no accident, it was conveniently located a few miles down the road from the newly built Jackson Lake Lodge (1955), which was also managed by the Preserve.

While the Wildlife Park was operated under the guise of scientific research and conservation (a Research Station was created nearby), many saw the 1,500 enclosure for what it was: a park. Internationally famous conservationist and valley resident, Olaus Murie was vehemently opposed to the captivity of the wild animals. Despite his protestations, and resignation from the Jackson Hole Preserve board, the Wildlife Park transferred to the National Park Service in 1950 upon the expansion of Grand Teton National Park. The research station was transferred to the University of Wyoming ownership and the Wildlife Park became the Wildlife Range.

The range would continue to be managed by the National Park Service until 1968 when the entire herd of bison escaped for the last time. Prior to this point, individuals would find ways to break free from the fencing, but they were always brought back. With all 15 free, the decision was made to allow them to roam free. The hands-free approach to wildlife management more closely followed National Park Service policy and the bison herd grew to become today’s resident population. Today, little remains of the Jackson Hole Wildlife Park except for the large meadow east of Oxbow Bend, and the large herd of bison that roam the valley.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Colter Bay

When the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) arrived in Jackson Hole in 1933-1935, they set up several camps around the valley: at the base of Jenny Lake, and Leigh Lake, near Lizard Creek and a small isolated bay on Jackson Lake. The main camp was located at Jenny Lake, with a few buildings remaining today in the form of the Exum Mountain Guides. The CCC had several projects throughout the valley, constructing campgrounds, park headquarters, trails and other visitor comforts. On Jackson Lake, they were tasked with the removal of the dead trees that had amassed along the shoreline when the Lake was dammed in 1906. The dam caused the lake level to increase, flooding out the trees lining the shore. These trees then died, and resulted in what locals described as an “unsightly mess.” From 1933 and 1937, over 7,000 trees would be removed from around the lake. While Jackson Lake’s shorelines would not be officially part of Grand Teton National Park until 1950, in these early years the lake was still a top tourist destination in the valley. It was only surpassed by Jenny Lake, due to the concessions and campground already in place there.

With the start of World War II, the CCC departed the valley in 1941. The former location of the CCC camp on Jackson Lake would remain unused for only two years. Due to the CCC’s presence, the land had been cleared for their use and the small bay it was located on was seen as an ideal place to access the lake itself. In 1943, the area was declared part of the Jackson Hole National Monument by President Roosevelt. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. had been a presence in the valley since the late 1920s, buying up over 35,000 acres with the intention to donate it for a National Park. He was aware of the small bay on Jackson Lake where the CCC had been, and began eyeing the location as the ideal site for a new campground. The only other formal campground in the valley was at Jenny Lake, and it was always at capacity. In drawing visitors up to the northern end of the valley, nearer to his lodgings at Moran, Rockefeller saw an opportunity.

Due to Rockefeller’s large land purchases, he also had a small army of old homesteading cabins that needed to be removed in order to return the homesteads back to their natural appearance. Rather than incur the expense of demolition and removal, Rockefeller and his partners in the National Park Service moved over 186 small cabins to the newly-named Colter Bay from around the valley. The majority of the cabins come from: the old town of Moran (Ben Sheffield’s Teton Lodge Company), the Square G Ranch, the Half Moon Girl’s Dude Ranch, the Circle H Ranch and the old Jackson Lake Lodge. Upon its opening in 1957, the Colter Bay Village could host up to 3,000 guests in the renovated cabins, tent sites and an RV park. The distinctive corner notches and varying craftsman skill resulted in different construction techniques and designs that demonstrates which cabins came from which ranch. All of the cabins received new foundations and new roofs, along with plumbing and electricity.

When Colter Bay opened in 1957, plans were already in motion to enlarge the area and bring in permanent visitor comforts. The cabin village was just the beginning of a larger master plan. In 1966, the National Park Service would be celebrating a milestone; 50 years of service to the American public. There was a national movement to update and part of the plan was to renovate all of the visitor services infrastructure in every national park to celebrate the anniversary. Known as Mission 66, this plan would overhaul Colter Bay, the result is its appearance today. Between 1956 when the plans were initiation and 1966, additional campground loops, maintenance and utility areas, general store improvements, the marina, amphitheater, employee housing, cafeteria, laundromat, and associated roads were all constructed. The Indian Arts Museum would later open in 1973 (having been planned after the anniversary celebration in 1969).

The significance of Colter Bay’s participation in the Mission 66 program also sets it aside from the projects at other National Parks. Colter Bay’s initiation construction and opening was seen as an experiment for a national-scale program. It was unusual in its private backing (the Rockefellers) but the success was significant enough for the National Park Service to embark on the official Mission 66 program nation-wide. The historic cabin village and the RV sites would be a first for a National Park campground.

Today, Colter Bay remains one of the most popular campgrounds in Grand Teton National Park. While it has undergone many changes and expansions in the employee housing and maintenance areas, the cabin village remains a hidden gem. Few realize the legacy of homesteading, dude ranching, and tourism these small cabins carry. Their distinctive features and construction remain as evidence of the history of the valley, and continue to serve a similar purpose for which they were built. Colter Bay’s hidden history is also its most significant, but for those who know where to look it is not forgotten.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Beaver Creek Administration Area

For the last century, the Beaver Creek Administration area has been housing the administrative officials tasked with managing the federally protected lands in Jackson Hole. When the Teton National Forest was created in 1908, two small log buildings were constructed to house the forest rangers and their office space. The Stewart Ranger Station remained unchanged until Grand Teton National Park was established in 1929. The lands underneath the Stewart Ranger Station then transferred to National Park Service management, and the buildings were retained to house the new Park administration. Renamed the Beaver Creek Ranger Station, the site would continue to grow over the next few decades.

When Grand Teton National Park was formed in 1929, the National Park Service had been established for 13 years. It had created a series of standardized plans for developing and maintaining administration areas for their protected lands. They were constructed with an interest in preserving the character of the natural setting, with the intention of keeping the buildings secluded. The plans also called for a separation of visitor services and administration. It was thought that seeing the “behind the scenes” operation would detract from the visitor experience. Originally the old Elbo Dude Ranch housed the early administration offices, just south of Jenny Lake. From here, park officials were able to survey the landscape on the very eastern boundary of the newly formed Park, and they settled on the already-established Forest Service buildings for their headquarters. The Elbo Dude Ranch, being located directly on one of the main roads in the valley, made the site undesirable, but some of the sleeping cabins were maintained for employee housing until 1970 when the remaining buildings were removed.

Over the next decade, the National Park Service would construct several more buildings in the Administration area. Housing, storage facilities, and various outbuildings were constructed as part of the New Deal programs established by President Roosevelt. Both the Emergency Conservation Work (ECW) and the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) were involved in the building project. Plans were closely followed for both the landscape and architectural designs. Curvilinear roads and natural construction materials were used to ensure the buildings would blend in with the landscape. Use of materials often found on-site, like lodgepole pine trees and river stones, contributed to the “natural feel” of the buildings. The use of dark brown paint on the logs and green rolled asphalt roofing ensured that the entire site would blend in with the natural color palette.

Due to the use of standardized plans, a style of architecture unique to the National Park Service emerged. Known today as “National Park Service Rustic,” the style is easily identifiable. Also called “exaggerated rustic” or “pioneer log construction,” this style blended elements of early log cabin construction adapted to a much larger scale. The use of log and stones purposefully creates a sense that the building was formed directly from the surrounding landscape. An absence of decorative elements or superfluous materials furthered the design principle, helping insure that these man-made structures were visually subordinate to the natural environment. As the movement continued, increasingly stylized designs emerged, focusing more on the monumental rather than natural. Examples such as the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone National Park are considered the epitome of the style (also called Adirondack on the East Coast).

Between 1934 and 1941, Beaver Creek #10 (the old Forest Service buildings would undergo several renovations that included uniting both log portions into a single building, with a new central roof. Additions on both the east and west elevations, with new porches, would render the building unrecognizable from its original construction in 1908. It was used as the primary Park administration building until 1958 when the new Park Headquarters were constructed in Moose. Beaver Creek #10 continued to be used for office space until 2004. Today, Beaver Creek #10 remains unused but the remainder of the Beaver Creek area continues to house park employees. It is one of the oldest examples of early administration architecture in the valley. The Beaver Creek area continues to house park administration and employees, serving the same purpose for which it was built.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach