First Families of Jackson Hole

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The Wilson Family left to right: John, Mary (mother), George, Mary Alice, Charles, Rebecca, Elias, Melvina c.1898. Not pictured: Sylvester (d. 1895), Ervin (d.1897) and Martha.

First Families is a unique exhibit dedicated to the first families who made Jackson Hole their permanent home. The entirety of the research and family photos have been collected by direct descendants of these families. Authored by Melvina Wilson Robertson, the story was an account of Sylvester Wilson and his family’s decision to move from Wilsonville, Utah to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Melvina was the 12th child of Sylvester and Mary Wilson, and she was three years old when these events unfolded. Even as a young woman, Melvina recognized the importance of preserving these details, many soon lost to time and the invention of modern technologies. She considered herself the family biographer and began keeping detailed notes and collecting family photos.

Upon her death in 1952, her large collections were kept intact and eventually passed to her granddaughter, Judith S. Andersen. It was Judith who passed copies of her family’s extensive records onto JHHSM, and many early details of homesteading in Jackson Hole are finally being retold.  The true extent of Melvina’s research and the hundreds of extended family members she documented through genealogical records is too vast to share here. Three bound books containing her work are available upon appointment in the Stan Klassen Research Center.

What follows below is a first-hand account of what everyday life was like in the first wave of homesteading in Jackson Hole from 1890-1900. During these years, life in the valley was exceptionally isolated. There wasn’t even a clear route over Teton Pass; these first families felled the first trees to allow their wagons to pass. How they then built and illuminated their homes, how they dressed themselves and what they ate, how they survived the long winter months are all brought to light through Melvina’s writing. While many accounts and documents exist with this information, few are firsthand accounts written by the individuals who experienced this lifestyle.

When the dude ranching boom hit in the 1920s, Jackson Hole was still rugged country, however it was very much on the map. Conveniences like kerosene lamps, regular mail service, general and grocery stores, and a rudimentary (but extant) road system allowed locals and dudes alike a comparatively comfortable life. Just twenty years prior, the first general store offering luxury items like flour, shoes, clothing, wash bins and candy opened in the newly-named town of Jackson in 1900. For the early homesteaders, a yearly trip was made over the treacherous Pass to Idaho that took weeks. By the time Melvina reached adulthood, convenience was just a day’s ride away, and what Pap Deloney couldn’t stock, the mailman could haul over the Pass.

What was it like to live and work on the first homesteads in Jackson Hole? Click on the photos below to find out!

UT to WY

 The First Winter

Cabin Construction

Cabin Interiors

Cooking Nutrient

Clothing

Community Growth

Church

School

Post Office

Cemetery

Hospital Medicine

Second Generation

Recipes

Samantha Ford
Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Square G Ranch

The Square G Ranch was homesteaded and owned by Albert and Lida Gabbey. The couple first moved to Jackson Hole in 1925 after hearing about the scenic valley from friends. They rented a cabin in Kelly the first winter and made the acquaintance of Homer Richards. Richards had a homestead near Jenny Lake and was well-known throughout the valley for his barbershop and gas station. Richards encouraged the Gabbeys to take up their own homestead on Jenny Lake. Initially, Gabbey intended to open a small tourist lodging facility, but soon learned that there were several options already nearby, including on Richards’ land. Gabbey and Richards struck a deal to allow Gabbey to rent one of his tourist cabins and to build a store on the property. Gabbey constructed the Square G Shop and sold perishable produce, meat, and dairy products from nearby ranches, canned goods, camping and fishing supplies, and film. The presence of the new store and existing gas station no doubt helped to attract visitors to the Richards property and tourist cabins. Gabbey later filed on a 126-acre homestead entry and was awarded the patent in 1931.

Gabbey filed for a second patent in 1927, this time for 236 acres under the Stock Raising Act of 1916. At the same time, the Snake River Land Company was forming with the purpose of purchasing homesteads throughout Jackson Hole before commercial interests entered the valley. The Snake River Land Company’s primary members consisted of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Vanderbilt Webb, and Harold Fabian. Rockefeller had toured the valley and became concerned about the probability of commercial developers creating large resorts and subdivisions. He began secretly purchasing homesteads and ranches using the Snake River Land Company name with the intention to donate the land to the federal government for protection. When Albert Gabbey filed his 326-acre claim at the Wilson land office, several red flags were raised. One of the most “threatened” areas in the eyes of Rockefeller and his Land Company contained Jenny, String and Leigh Lakes. The Land Company maneuvered to deny the approval through the land office, hoping to prevent further development around Jenny Lake.

The Gabbeys continued to successfully operate their store with the addition of the Jenny Lake Post Office—with Mrs. Gabbey as postmaster. They constructed a few small cabins on their own homestead with the purpose of renting them out to overnight tourists. In 1929 the Gabbeys would experience another painful episode with the Snake River Land Company. Homer Richards had sold his homestead, which included the land the Square G Shop stood on. Gabbey wrote to Harold Fabian explaining that he alone owned the building and it had no legal standing in the sale. However, Fabian was determined to rid Jenny Lake of all the “improvements” and this included the burgeoning Square G Ranch. It was thought that without his shop, Gabbey could be persuaded to sell the rest. Instead of backing down, Gabbey organized a small group of neighbors and friends to dismantle his building and rebuild it on a neighbor’s private land.

Since Gabbey legally owned the building, there was not much Fabian could do. However, the Land Company maneuvered to deny Gabbey’s 326-acre Stock Raising application through the land office. When the Secretary of the Interior eventually heard about the scuffle, they ordered the patent to be approved in 1940. The Snake River Land Company had no jurisdiction to influence the land office, and the whole matter helped to fuel local rumors that the company had an illegal partnership with the National Park Service. Later court filings ultimately found no wrong doing. With the Square G Shop saved for the time being, the Gabbeys focused on expanding their small ranch into a motor court. By 1934, five cabins had been constructed, each with two to three rooms. These were termed “housekeeping” cabins, which meant that guests looked after their own needs. Full kitchens were provided, so the guests were not reliant on the dining room. Despite the conveniences, Mrs. Gabbey’s unrivaled cooking was known throughout the valley, and many cabin kitchens went unused. A year later, four more one room cabins were constructed. Eventually more than 30 cabins were constructed on the property.

Around 1936 the Gabbeys sold the old Square G Shop to the Novotnys, where it was later acquired by J.D. Kimmel and renamed the Jenny Lake Store. Albert Gabbey built the new Square G Store across the highway from the ranch and expanded the inventory into novelty items, silver jewelry, Navajo rugs, Kodak film and tobacco. Local artists Archie Teator and Harrison Crandall also sold their works. A Shell service station was added with two gas pumps were added. The Square G had survived the earlier legal turmoil to emerge as one of the best-known ranches in the valley for its food and its rates. Because it wasn’t a true dude ranch, the Gabbeys offered overnight rates starting at $2.00 (and up to $4.00) and weekly rates starting at $12.50 (and up to $25.00). Rates varied due to housekeeping and maid service and the size of the cabin (one to three room options). All comfort necessities like bedding and towels were provided, and the ranch was centrally located for a wide variety of concessionaire-owned activities. Horseback riding, hiking, fishing and mountain guides were all located nearby at the south end of Jenny Lake.

In 1947 Albert died, leaving his wife Lida with the ranch. She continued to operate it for a few years, but the responsibilities were difficult and she was no longer young. In 1950 she contacted Harold Fabian to discuss terms for selling. Feeling confident about the price, the sale went through and management transferred to the Jackson Hole Preserve-owned (formerly Snake River Land Company) Grand Teton Lodge Company.  Lida continued to travel to the Square G for the summers before age caught up with her. In 1954 the Preserve had decided to close the ranch and move the buildings to the newly planned facility at Colter Bay. Today, the Square G’s memory lives on in the relocated cabins at Colter Bay. Their distinctive shaggy bark exteriors (the logs were never trimmed of their bark) mark them as Square G buildings.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Kimmel Kabins

In 1937 when Geraldine Lucas died, she had spent the better part of the last decade rebuffing several offers to purchase her homestead. Located at the base of the Tetons, directly below the Grand Teton, it was in a valuable and scenic location. For years Harold Fabian of the Snake River Land Company had made offers, and Geraldine refused them all. She once stated if Fabian could stack silver dollars as tall as the Grand, she might start listening. Upon her death, she had been in contact with Oberlin College, her alma mater, with plans to donate the land. Her son Russell had no attachment to the property, and rather than continue negotiations with Oberlin, sold it to a next-door neighbor. J.D. Kimmel and his wife Lura had just purchased the Sam Smith homestead, and were looking to expand. When Lucas’ enviable land came up for sale, Kimmel jumped at the opportunity, even before Fabian had heard the news.

While Geraldine Lucas had few positive things to say about Fabian and the Snake River Land Company, the two could have found common ground in an alliance against a man like J.D. Kimmel. Kimmel was exactly the type of man that the Snake River Land Company feared most, a forward-thinking land speculator who saw dollar signs, and not scenic beauty. He had already constructed several cabins for overnight motorists, along with a general store that housed a post office and a few gas pumps. The small but expanding motor court was called the Kimmel Kabins and the nearby Jenny Lake Store supplied camping supplies. Both were located just off the Teton Park Road, then the main highway that ran through the valley.

Kimmel’s plans for the old Lucas homestead were just what those who sought to protect the valley feared—he planned to subdivide and sell house lots. They would sell quickly, being located close to the convenience store and gas station. They would be situated right at the foot of Grand Teton National Park, and upon any expansion, be preserved as private land. Harold Fabian quickly recognized all the time and money the Snake River Land Company had invested into the valley could be undone by Kimmel’s plans. No lands were more valuable than those directly under the Tetons, and just minutes from Jenny Lake. If Fabian was successful in preventing this type of commercial development in the rest of the valley, a private neighborhood in the middle of the National Park would make that work meaningless.

Whether by accident or design, Kimmel and Fabian developed an easy friendship. Kimmel was well aware of Fabian’s stance on the planned development, but the men were able to compromise their leanings during several social outings. By 1944, the Kimmel Kabins were a success, and many tourists stopped for camping supplies and gas at the Jenny Lake Store. A year earlier, the Jackson Hole National Monument had been formed, and Kimmel’s property was now surrounded by federal land. He invited Fabian out for a drive with their wives, and as the famous story goes, Kimmel said to Fabian, “Fabian, I could ruin your whole damn project.” Fabian replied, “I know you can Uncle Kimmel.” Kimmel left Fabian in worried silence before going on, “But I ain’t going to.” And with that, Kimmel sold his prized lots to the Jackson Hole Preserve (formerly the Snake River Land Company).

The Geraldine Lucas homestead was absorbed into the interests held by the Preserve, Kimmel had never touched the property. Harold and Josephine Fabian were given the property (possibly in reward for his triumph in acquiring the Kimmel holdings) as a summer residence and unofficial headquarters to continue managing the Preserve. It would seem a great irony that Lucas’ biggest foe was also her strongest ally. J.D. Kimmel was given a life lease to continue operations at his Kimmel Kabins, and the Jenny Lake Store. Both of these continued until Lura’s death in 1962. The commercial store and gas pumps were removed and the cabins were converted for Grand Teton National Park employee housing. Today, the Kimmel Kabins still exist in their original location at Lupine Meadows. They are still used as park employee housing, but the store and gas station are distant memories. In aerial imagery, the original roadbed that accessed the old buildings is still visible. Many speculate as to Kimmel’s reasoning for selling to Fabian. Maybe he admired Fabian’s drive to preserve natural spaces for public enjoyment, and maybe Kimmel himself finally realized that scenic beauty outweighed dollar signs. Whatever the reason, both the Lucas homestead and the Kimmel Kabins remain as important pieces in the enduring heritage of the valley.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Jenny Lake Lodge

On September 19, 1930 Tony Grace sold his Danny Ranch to the Snake River Land Company. Grand Teton National Park had recently been created in 1929, and the Land Company had been in talks with the National Park Service over the future of the Danny Ranch. Early National Park Service policy held little value in cultural resources, and managed their lands only for the natural resources. They were of the opinion that all Snake River Land Company purchases around Jenny Lake should be removed in order to return the lake to its original, natural setting. The Snake River Land Company largely agreed with these policies, it had formed with a similar purpose to prevent commercial ventures and subdivisions from ruining the scenic beauty of the valley.

The homesteaders and ranchers had worked hard to prove up on their parcels and spent a lot of time and money investing in their buildings and their livestock. To see their buildings and hard work razed in the wake of a Land Company purchase was difficult. Many held out, but many felt pressured to act now and take the monetary incentive or be removed without compensation. Tony Grace of the Danny Ranch was one of these individuals; he held out for a year but ultimately worried that an eventual expansion of Grand Teton National Park would leave him with nothing. Initially the plan was to remove all of the Danny Ranch buildings and to move them to the Triangle X Ranch.

However, the Snake River Land Company was fielding complaints by tourists at the Teton Lodge in Moran who claimed that their lodgings were too far away from the National Park (at this point Grand Teton National Park only included the Teton Range, and the small lakes at their base. Jackson Lake was excluded). Rockefeller and his committee realized the need to keep the Danny Ranch operable to not only offer lodging close to the National Park, but also to support the ever-growing tourist numbers. After the sale of the Danny Ranch, and Tony Grace’s departure in 1931, the ranch sat empty and unused for five years. Finally in 1937, the National Park Service acquiesced the proposed use of additional tourist accommodations at the old Danny Ranch. Despite their policy that favored removing all buildings, the Park Service realized it was better to make use of the existing structures rather than relocating at the expense of both financial and natural resources elsewhere in the valley.

In the summer of 1937, the Jenny Lake Ranch was opened under the auspices of the Grand Teton Lodge and Transportation Company (which also managed the Teton Lodge) after necessary repairs were completed. A small kitchen with an electric stove replaced the woodstove that had previously been used for cooking, and a gravity-fed plumbing system was installed throughout the ranch. It was a rudimentary system, with a pump and trenches dug from String Lake. Despite the running water, electricity was still considered a modern comfort. Guests used lanterns for light and were encouraged to spend their days outside hiking, riding or fishing. Activities remained the same as they did with Grace’s ownership, however, the feeling of community between guests and staff was now gone. Guests reserved individual cabins and the ranch was run by an absentee company, rather than by those who called the property home.

The ranch was expanded to 65 guests and its popularity grew with the more affluent tourists. There was now talk about converting the ranch into a more exclusive resort. These plans were put on hold during World War II, and the ranch was closed. One momentous event occurred during the war years, when the ranch was empty. In 1943 the Jackson Hole National Monument was created, and the Jenny Lake Ranch was now surrounded by federal land. The ranch had been part of the 35,000 acres that the Snake River Land Company had purchased with the intention of donating it to an expansion of Grand Teton National Park.

After World War II ended, the Grand Teton Lodge and Transportation Company declined to continue operations at Jenny Lake Ranch and the Teton Lodge at Moran. The Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. (formerly Snake River Land Company) purchased the interests of the Grand Teton Lodge and Transportation Company to run the Jenny Lake Lodge and the Teton Lodge at Moran. Due to the Jenny Lake Ranch’s disuse for the last several years, deferred maintenance on the cabins had taken a toll. The more than 25 buildings needed several repairs and updates to meet the expectations of the modern tourist. However, the Jackson Hole Preserve was willing to fund the renovations and by 1949 the renamed Jenny Lake Lodge was considered the premiere lodging option in the valley.

A few short years later, in 1955, Jenny Lake Lodge had been all but abandoned in favor of the large, glass and concrete epitome of modern architecture that was Jackson Lake Lodge. With the new architect-designed resort replacing the old ramshackle Teton Lodge, the Jenny Lake Lodge was seen as superfluous and maintenance was once again neglected. The old trench and gravity-fed water system had failed, and the lack of clean water and necessary sewage system seemed an insurmountable hurdle. With the construction of the Colter Bay facilities in the 1960s, came the order to close and demolish the Jenny Lake Lodge. However, that same year several Secretary of the Interior officials met at Jenny Lake Lodge and became came to value the place and its enduring history. They overturned the decision the Grand Teton National Park officials had made, and ordered that not only should the small lodge be saved, but enlarged and modernized.

In 1958, a gala banquet was held to celebrate the re-opening of Jenny Lake Lodge as the premiere lodging resort of the valley–fulfilling a vision many long espoused. Jenny Lake’s historic log cabins and rustic feel clearly separated it from the sweeping glass-encased views of the Jackson Lake Lodge. The traditional craftsmanship and homesteading history brought a warmth to the buildings that was unmistakable, despite the architect-designed renovations. A large well and water system had finally been installed. Tony Grace was an honored banquet guest at the event, and he brought with him the original guest book for the Danny Ranch as a gift. While the old Danny Ranch had seen a rough few decades, especially since Grace’s departure, it was now assuming its full potential. Today, the Jenny Lake Lodge continues to operate as an “elegant, private” resort at the foot of the Tetons.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Danny Ranch

On June 3, 1922 Tony Grace filed on a homestead on the east shores of String Lake, just north of Jenny Lake. His intentions were to create a small, secluded guest ranch after having worked at two of the largest and most successful guest operations in the valley. During his employment at Ben Sheffield’s Teton Lodge and Struthers Burt’s Bar BC Dude Ranch, Grace fell in love with teaching Easterners how to enjoy the West. He had met Albert B. Strange and his family at the Teton Lodge and the two men became fast friends. When Grace moved to the Bar BC, the Stranges followed him. With encouragement and financial backing from Strange, Grace opened his own guest ranch. He named it “Danny,” after Albert Strange’s daughter. Grace preferred to think of his clients as “guests” rather than “dudes,” and treated them as equals. Everyone participated in the ranch chores, and everyone was considered family. Because of Grace’s affable nature, he had no trouble finding volunteers for work. Many guests jumped at the opportunity to be called to work with Grace personally, and operations were handled smoothly. This allowed Grace to have a near-constant presence in ranch activities, and contributed to a pervasive community atmosphere.

Hiking, mountain climbing, pack trips, fishing, swimming were all offered as activities. Many guests stayed for two to three weeks, and arrived by train in Idaho. Grace would transport everyone back to the ranch personally, led in wagons over Teton Pass and over the rough local roads. In a few short years, his ranch grew exponentially. In the first year, he hosted 23 guests. By 1925, the Danny Ranch could rival the Bar BC with 46 guests. In 1928, the ranch held over 54 guests. In just five short years, the Danny Ranch had become one of the most popular ranches in the valley. This was due in part to Tony Grace’s successful winter trips to New York to meet friends of the Stranges to sign them up for the next summer. Word of mouth provided the rest. In 1929, Grand Teton National Park was created and the Danny Ranch found itself right at the eastern border. Talk had been circulating for years about the possibility of expanding Yellowstone to include all of Jackson Hole. With the formation of a new National Park right on their doorstep, Grace became concerned that the talk of expansion was imminent.

Grace’s fears were confirmed when the Snake River Land Company came knocking with offers to buy the ranch. They were particularly interested in Grace’s land being between Jenny and String Lakes and in one of the most beautiful places in the valley. The National Park Service had begun talks to return the lakes back to their natural settings, and eradicate the stores, concessions, gas stations and ranches that had sprung up near the shores. While this goal was ultimately unsuccessful, the business and ranch owners were under considerable pressure to sell and move on. The Danny Ranch’s stellar reputation had begun to work against its success. With the full attention of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and Vanderbilt Webb, the President of the Snake River Land Company, Grace was pursued almost relentlessly. A series of letters between Snake River Land Company representatives and Grace illustrates the pressure to sell despite having such personal ties to the area.

Tony Grace held out for a year before succumbing to the wishes of the Land Company. Ultimately he felt that expansion of Grand Teton National Park was imminent and that if he did not accept the offer of $24,000 he might get nothing. While the Land Company was only interested in the land, Grace felt a personal connection to the buildings. Tony Grace met with the Turner family of Triangle X, who were also being courted by the Snake River Land Company. In a letter to Harold Fabian in May of 1929, John Turner writes: “…all you people wanted to buy was our land, and we could keep our improvements. Our money is in our buildings. I would not want our buildings on someone else’s property.” This was a sentiment reflected throughout the valley at the time. The Land Company was purchasing parcels of land to preserve, and removing the buildings. The buildings represented the hard work and rights of the homesteaders, who were required to make those improvements to own their land. Initially, Grace declined the offer and wrote about his concerns that the Land Company would use his ranch for tourist accommodations, “It would be a sad sight to me, to come back here and find a lot of signs stuck up on it.” While the Snake River Land Company was only interested in preserving the land, the homesteaders and dude ranchers alike saw more value in the pieces of history they had personally constructed on top of it.

Ultimately both the Turners and Tony Grace sold their ranches. The Triangle X Ranch’s location on the far eastern boundary of the valley allowed the family to continue to lease the ranch. In 2016, the Triangle X and Turner family are celebrating their 90th anniversary. Unfortunately for Grace, his location on valuable and scenic Jenny Lake meant that his lease only extended to June 1, 1931. In the summer of 1930, only 22 guests were at the Danny Ranch. Both the news of the sale and the Great Depression had kept people away. The next summer Tony left the valley for a life in Montana. He would return in 1958 for a gala banquet to celebrate the opening of the Jenny Lake Lodge. The Lodge utilized the old Danny Ranch buildings, and Tony Grace was an honored guest. While it was bittersweet to return to the ranch he had built and loved, his worst fears were never realized. The Lodge was intentionally kept small and exclusive, and the old ranch was still recognizable despite the new use. The Danny Ranch was one of the shortest-lived, but also one of the most successful guest ranches in the valley. Today it remains preserved within the Jenny Lake Lodge, a reminder that compromise and thought for both the past and future can be successful as well.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Highlands

Harry and Elizabeth Sensenbach moved their young family from Pennsylvania to Jackson Hole in 1914. They settled and applied for land on the eastern boundary of Jimmy Manges’ homestead. They attempted to raise barley and oats, but the poor soil on the western side of the Snake River proved difficult to cultivate. Once they received their patent in 1921, they converted their small four-room house into a restaurant. Their location proved unattractive in terms of agriculture, but it was directly situated on the main road in the valley that traveled north to Moran and Yellowstone. During the difficult years of “proving up” they would have seen an increase in tourist traffic along the road, and decided to embrace the changing pace of the valley.

During prohibition, the Sensenbach place was rumored to sell bootleg liquor. Upon the repeal of prohibition, they quickly became known as the local beer parlor, somewhat fueling the prior rumors. Despite the loss of one of their sons, the family lived comfortably catering to the overnight tourist traffic and added a few small rental cabins. Alfred Sensenbach had been drafted for World War I, but the Armistice was signed before he was called to duty overseas. Tragically, while in training at Rock Springs, he caught the flu, which progressed to pneumonia and claimed his life. He was buried across the highway on his family’s land, facing the Grand Teton. Today, a chain-link fence, located on the southern tip of Timbered Island, lines his solitary grave.

In 1927, the Sensenbachs sold off the remaining portion of their homestead to Elena Gibo and kept 45 acres around their growing cabin court. Once their full attention had turned to the tourist business, they had no need for the majority of their land. The soil was too poor to raise hay or cattle, so they were not considered a dude ranch. In 1944, the Sensenbachs sold their remaining 45 acres and cabin court to retire. Just two years later in 1946, Harry died, and Elizabeth followed a year later. In 1946 Charles Byron Jenkins purchased the property and formed the Highlands Corporation to develop a cabin court. He intended to expand the already successful business, and planned for a large, U-shaped design.

Adding one to two cabins a year, Jenkins quadrupled the size of the small homestead into a true cabin court. Each of the cabins was constructed from logs and reflected the Rocky Mountain Rustic style of the National Park Service architecture. The property remained privately owned, but intentionally followed the design principles of the National Park Service. Buildings were constructed to cater to the evolving needs of tourists. Not only did these cabins look and feel like the rustic dude ranch architecture, but they came outfitted with full, private bathrooms complete with hot and cold running water. Unlike other motor or cabin courts, meals were provided and guests were encouraged to dine there for “convenience.”

The restaurant was popular with visitors and locals alike with the Jenkins family acting as chef, hostess, and wait staff. The rooms were available for weekly or nightly rentals, with activities planned through local concessionaires. Unlike a dude ranch, a saddle horse was not provided but a sense of community was palpable among the guests as if it were a traditional ranch. The Highlands was known throughout the valley for its clean cabins, ease of reservations and quality meal service. It is no surprise that Grand Teton National Park officials began approaching Jenkins with offers to buy the property. Rather than seeing it as a commercialized tourist attraction, the Park officials saw an opportunity for employee housing.

In 1972, Jenkins agreed and sold the 2.9 acres that included all of the buildings for $225,000. The Highlands was a quality location to house the Park employees and hidden from view from the road. The “old” Elbo Dude Ranch had previously been used as staff housing, and it was considered an eyesore so close to the road. With the conversion of Highlands from cabin court to private employee housing, the Elbo was removed from the landscape. Today, the Highlands continues to house Park employees, preserving the careful planning of Charles Byron Jenkins. Alfred Sensenbach’s grave on the opposite side of the highway reminds those who stumble upon it that history is never completely forgotten.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Moose Head Ranch

In 1927, Eva Sanford became one of the last individuals to file for a homestead on Spread Creek. Later that same year Calvin Coolidge signed Executive Order #4685 removing over 1,280 acres of public land from homestead claims. In 1930 the Sanford’s homestead was contested by the General Land Office, believing it to have been illegal due to the closure of public lands. An inspector was sent to review the property and the application, and found four cabins, a barn, chicken coop and garage. 19 acres had been cultivated and nearly 20 head of cattle and horses were on the property. The inspector determined that the homestead complied, and a patent was issued in 1931. It appears as though Eva’s determination to prove up on her land paid off, as there were too many improvements made to reverse the application.

Eva had arrived in the valley a year prior, escorted by her parents to become the new teacher at the Spread Creek School. She had up to 16 students, and taught first through eighth grade with two students in each grade. Despite being paid $90 a month (almost $10 more than the surrounding counties) most of her wages went toward her rent. To make ends meet, she worked on the nearby Cunningham Ranch and later for Rudy Harold, another neighbor. By December 16, 1931 when her homestead patent was approved, Eva was married to Fred Topping (a neighbor) and they both had built the modest beginnings of the Moose Head Ranch.

The tract of 120 acres of land that Eva filed on was surrounded by homesteads and ranches, so she had little work to do fencing her property. Between teaching and working for her neighbors, she had little time to construct a cabin of her own. When Eva and Fred were married, they both held homestead claims but had no cabin to live in. During the fall of 1928, Fred built a small cabin and they moved in before winter hit. A barn was added the next year, Rudy Harold gave them two dairy cows, Eva kept chickens and Fred bought eight head of horses. Fred had been working as a wrangler and hunting guide at the Bar BC, and JY Ranches, Eva tended the ranch and sold dairy, eggs and vegetables to the stores in Jackson. Fred’s reputation as one of the best guides in the valley garnered a following. Soon dudes from Bar BC, JY and even Sheffield’s Teton Lodge at Moran would only go on trips led by Fred. This gave Fred the idea of allowing hunters to lodge in tents on the Toppings property, a preferable arrangement to having to earn a living by working for someone else.

The tents, while cheap, were not suitable for the frigid late fall temperatures and the hunters couldn’t keep warm. Fall in 1930 came with -20 temperatures, which led Fred to add a kitchen and dining room on to his and Eva’s cabin, and one cabin for guests. They continued to add more guest cabins as demand increased. Despite the ranch opening during the Depression, the Toppings brought in a steady and loyal group of guests. Operations began to expand and by 1937, they officially called themselves the Moose Head Ranch. Like many others in the valley, the Toppings began the ranch intending to run cattle and horses, but soon found that wrangling dudes was far more lucrative. The Union Pacific listed the ranch in their “Dude Ranches Out West” pamphlet that was printed annually. For $35 a week, guests could enjoy “an old tub and shower baths,” main lodge dining room and lounge, fresh dairy and vegetables. The ability to grow vegetables and provide homemade dairy was a rarity on the earlier dude ranches in the valley. With such a short growing season, gardening was a limited activity. Horseback riding, hiking, fishing, and hunting trips were also offered. An additional option of $25 a week provided just room and board, without the saddle horse. It would appear the majority of the Moose Head’s following were hunters, and the ranch was never classified as a true “dude ranch” because it was not an operational cattle ranch.

The ranch soon could house up to 40 guests, but Eva found work as the postmaster for Elk, to bring in some cash. From 1932 until 1967, the Elk Post Office was stationed in its own cabin on the Moose Head Ranch. As was customary in Jackson Hole, when a schoolteacher was married, they brought in another teacher to carry on the duties. When the ranch that housed the Spread Creek School was sold to Grand Teton National Park, the school had to move. Eva allowed the building to be moved to the Moose Head, and it became known as the Elk School. The Toppings never charged the school rent.

At the end of 1967, the Toppings sold the ranch to John Mettler. Fred was in ill health, so the pair moved into Jackson. Fred later died in 1970, and Eva remained active in the Jackson social scene, working for several organizations. In 1972, she married William Briggs, but always looked back on her time at Moose Head fondly. Despite the challenging nature of ranching, it was rewarding to see all the hard work reflected in the success of the ranch and happiness of the guests. Today the Moose Head Ranch is still owned and operated by the Mettler family, and remains the only privately run dude ranch in Jackson Hole. Because the Toppings never sold their land to the Snake River Land Company or Grand Teton National Park, the ranch remains on private land.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Teton Science Schools Kelly Campus

Very little information remains on the early homesteading history of the Teton Science Schools’ Kelly Campus. It is known that Ransom Adams filed on a 160-acre homestead that is thought to have been first settled by Grant Shinkle. While Adams’ claim remains in the patent issued by the General Land Office, Shinkle’s claim is undocumented. In 1917, Adams sold the homestead to D.H. Miller, who leased it to Raymond Kent. The Kent family lived on the homestead until 1923, creating a small family ranch. They raised hay and grain that they sold to neighbors, but never owned any cattle. In 1928, John “Jack” and Dollye Woodman purchased the property from Miller and opened a modest dude ranch called the Flying V. For the first time the ranch now had a name.

There are few records about the earliest buildings on the ranch, but the Woodmans probably purchased a few small log buildings necessary for supporting a small haying operation and family. The Woodmans invested in a herd of cattle and a large new main lodge to run their dude operations from. Rates were $550 for the 2-month season or $70 weekly. In 1932, tragedy struck and the new lodge caught fire. One woman died as a result from burns she sustained. The Woodmans were devastated and decided not to rebuild, they instead sold the lodge and the cattle to Gustav Koven. Koven then sold the cattle, and associated brand, to the Chambers family of nearby Mormon Row. The Chambers opened a new ranch under the Flying V name in the Gros Ventre. At the former Woodman property, Koven had formed a partnership in 1936 with famed mountain guide Paul Petzoldt, who suggested renaming the ranch “Ramshorn.” Their idea was to create a hybrid dude ranch and headquarters for mountain climbing guides. Koven and Petzoldt rebuilt the main lodge and added three additional guest cabins. However the partnership would not last and Petzoldt departed in 1937. Koven leased out the ranch to local guides Ted and Bill Jump who ran a small dude ranch during the summer and hosted hunters in the fall.

In 1946, Koven sold the ranch to a partnership of non-locals. The association had plans to continue the dude and hunting operations, but also to create a winter season for skiing. By 1953, all of the partners had sold their interests to Alvin P. Adams, vice-president of Pan American Airlines. In 1956, Adams sold the property to Grand Teton National Park. It would seem that despite the success of other small ranches throughout the valley, the Flying V-Ramshorn would not see the same determination in its changing ownership. But one woman with a ranch on the opposite side of the valley saw an opportunity in the lonely ranch. Katie Starratt held a lease on the Elbo Ranch just south of Jenny Lake. The Elbo had once been a thriving commercialized operation that had also witnessed the decline associated with multiple ownership. Grand Teton National Park officials allowed Starratt to transfer her lease, as they needed the old Elbo buildings for staff housing. She moved across the valley, and took the Elbo name with her. The former Ramshorn was now the “new” Elbo Ranch (as it became colloquially known). Starratt was able to bring her reputation and following from the old location to the ranch that never took off, and she was very successful.

In 1974 Starratt died and the now-popular New Elbo Ranch would come to an end. That same year, a new lease was issued on the property to the Grand Teton Environmental Education Center. The property was no longer open to dudes, but it had transferred to a unique style of education focused on teaching environmental science in a natural setting. Ted Major had first come to Jackson Hole in the 1960s to teach science, and began to develop his own curriculum focused on bringing the outdoors directly to his students. His vision was realized with the new lease at what is known today as the Kelly Campus of the Teton Science Schools (TSS). The campus was first used for TSS’s Graduate Program, which expanded to include the Journeys School in 2001. The Teton Science Schools now have several campuses in the area, and host a number of school groups from around the world. Ted Major’s early mission to connect students to their natural environment and the importance of conservation, has resulted in the preservation of the historic buildings at the Kelly Campus. Despite such a disruptive beginning, the Flying V-Ramshorn-Elbo-TSS Kelly Campus has become a prominent player in the history of the valley.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

The Manges Cabin

Jimmy Manges originally homesteaded the land that became the Elbo Ranch, just south of Jenny Lake. He applied for a patent in 1911, and it took him seven long years of hard work to clear just 42 of his 160 acres. The homestead cabin he built in 1911 became one of the first homesteads on the west side of the Snake River, and one of the first cabins in the valley to have a second floor. The cabin also featured a “basement” in the form of a root cellar. Manges’ design was intended to make full use of the stove downstairs to heat the bedroom upstairs. In 1918 he received his patent and continued to work his poor soil, also working for several area dude ranches as a pack trip guide. By 1926 when he was approached by California businessman Chester Goss to sell, Manges quickly agreed to the sale. At the same time he was approached by Joseph Clark and Frank Williams who were looking to develop their own ranch, and Manges sold them 40 acres. Keeping 4.9 acres on which to live, Goss received the other 115 to develop the Elbo Ranch.

With some cash in his pocket, and the pressures of carving out a living from his land relieved, Manges was able to retire somewhat, ironically into the tourist business. Manges built himself a new homestead on his 4.9 acre parcel, and kept odd jobs around the valley as a laborer. In the 1930s, families were arriving in the valley having heard of the natural beauty and abundant wildlife. For those who couldn’t afford the expensive dude ranches, many resorted to camping along the roadside. One summer, Manges allowed a family to camp on his land rather than in the exposed sage flats. They built a small, crude cabin that they returned to the next summer. When the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) arrived in 1933 at nearby Jenny Lake, the foreman found affordable and affable housing with Manges for their families. They were allowed to build small rustic cabins, which they later turned over to Manges upon their departure.

With the absence of the CCC families, and several empty cabins, Manges decided to informally host overnight tourist traffic. These overnight tourists often stayed more than one night, and returned the next year. Manges allowed campers to tent or build their own small cabins. The small homestead became known as the X Quarter Circle X Ranch. These were nothing like the craftsman-built log cabins on other dude ranches. These were built from spare pieces of logs, wood and other materials that barely offered more protection than a tent. None had electricity or running water, and the families who stayed in them were responsible for their upkeep. By the 1940s, more than 20 cabin-like structures had appeared on the small parcel of land. Manges charged almost nothing, and for many, these rough and rustic accommodations were worth the price. Soon Manges’ nephew, Irwin Lesher became involved in managing the now-necessary oversight of the cabins. Lesher advised his uncle to raise his prices and offer more amenities.

In 1960, Manges died and Irwin Lesher continued to run the ranch. By this time, many families had established an annual presence on the ranch despite the rustic conditions. When Marvel Lesher sold the property to Grand Teton National Park, all of the buildings were removed except for the original 1911 Manges homestead cabin. The National Park Service kept the cabin, but converted it to use as a barn and storage space. Today, Manges’ cabin is the only remaining building from the land that supported both the X Quarter Circle X Ranch and the Elbo Ranch. Despite the X Quarter Circle X’s informal beginning and design, it was not considered a dude ranch. It resembled a cabin court, but did not offer just overnight tourist accommodations, since many families returned annually. With such primitive conditions, it does not fit into the mold of resorts or hotels. The ranch was as unique as Jimmy Manges, fitting the needs of the wide variety of guests who stayed there. While it cannot fit any distinct label, many families hold fond memories of the property and the companionship they found there.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

The Snake River Land Company Office

In 1918, William Carter received the patent for his homestead on a bend of the Snake River just east of the old town of Moran. By 1926 the property was sold to John Hogan who renovated the homestead to act as a summer residence and fox fur farm. He also built a few extra cabins to house guests and overnight travelers. Only the main residence and blacksmith shop remain today. Just four short years later, the Snake River Land Company purchased the property and converted it into use as a headquarters for their operations. Meetings of the board of directors are believed to have taken place here, and it was the early summer residence of Harold Fabian, the company’s lawyer. Fabian later purchased the Geraldine Lucas homestead near Jenny Lake and the old Hogan place was only used for administrative purposes.

Between 1930 and 1945, the Fabians worked to renovate the Hogan residence, creating a more comfortable arrangement. An office, kitchen, front porch and separate garage were added. After their departure for the Geraldine Lucas homestead, Sonny Allen moved into what was now the now Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc building to serve as caretaker. Allen also oversaw the operations down the road at the Jackson Hole Wildlife Park. The property remained under the ownership of the Jackson Hole Preserve until the expansion of Grand Teton National Park in 1950. At this point the building was converted for use as park employee housing. Today the main residence is known as the Buffalo Dorm, and continues to be used for park purposes. While it is not accessible to the public, it is an important piece of the valley’s history.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach