Benjamin Sheffield & Teton Lodge Company

Benjamin Sheffield & Teton Lodge Company

Captain Edward “Cap” Smith and his wife Clara were some of the first settlers in this region, prior to 1900. Frank Lovell had a homestead just next door. Cap and Clara Smith opened and ran a roadhouse when traffic started coming down the military road from Yellowstone in 1890-1892. It is thought that this modest two-story log structure burned around 1900. By the time Sheffield arrived and saw the area’s promise for a hunting lodge, the Smiths and Lovells were ready to move on. In 1903, Sheffield purchased both homesteads with the intention to open a hunting lodge. The area did not yet have a name, but it was already becoming a tourist “destination.” Many believe that it was Frank Lovell who was responsible for building the toll bridge that allowed access into Moran over the dam site. Other sources claim this was Ben Sheffield’s doing, after he built the Teton Lodge in 1903.

Located on the outlet of Jackson Lake, just below the future site of the dam, the lodge was a central location for many tourists travelling through Jackson Hole. In the early years Sheffield catered to wealthy hunters looking for guided trips into the Jackson Hole wilderness. This was a business he was skilled in, having previously led hunting trips in Livingston, Montana. In the fall he left for hunting and trapping, and in the winter he lived in Chicago, selling his pelts and working for an outdoor supply store. As his Teton Lodge continued to grow and he added more cabins, the business quickly grew to accommodate overnight tourists arriving from Yellowstone.

In 1906 Sheffield married Margaret Rice from Wisconsin. The two met in Moran when she was visiting with friends. She stayed on with Ben to help run the Teton Lodge. It was a large operation that took up most of the town of Moran. Sheffield had certainly picked a fortuitous site, as the Jackson Lake Dam construction projects brought a lot of cash and workers into the town. Construction also began nearby on the military camp for the Reclamation Service, turning the town of Moran into a bustling hub of activity. In 1907, Sheffield purchased the Moran post office from the Allens, and moved it to his Teton Lodge, and became postmaster on January 2, 1907. In 1925, he purchased the remainder of the Allen’s Elk Horn Ranch.

In 1910, Sheffield experienced a disaster that would be a major setback for his growing business. A fire destroyed the dining halls, kitchen, post office and his private living quarters. Later that year the log dam, the first dam to be built on Jackson Lake, failed and the town was flooded. The water was high enough that Sheffield purchased a boat and kept it tied to the front porch in case he needed to leave in a hurry due to rising water. This same flood washed out the toll bridge that allowed traffic to cross the dam area into Moran. Despite all this, Sheffield decided to rebuild rather than move on.

By the time the Sheffields sold to the Snake River Land Company in 1929, they were running a large operation that could accommodate 300 guests. This far surpassed the capacity of any dude ranch in the valley. The main lodge burned again in 1935, but the Teton Investment Company also rebuilt and continued to operate it until the 1950s. By 1959, the newly formed Grand Teton Lodge Company had moved most of the buildings in town to Colter Bay and other areas around the park. Some were torn down and removed. At this time, what was left of the town of Moran was physically moved to its current location, about 11 miles to the west. The old town site was re-graded and re-vegetated.

In 1955, with the construction of the Jackson Lake Lodge, the old ramshackle town of Moran was no longer an eyesore on the natural beauty of Jackson Lake. The Lodge was listed as a National Historic Landmark in 2003, which is the highest distinction a historic building can earn. The Murie Center in Moose is the only other National Historic Landmark in Grand Teton National Park. It is rare to have two such Landmarks in such close proximity.

TIMELINE

1903: Benjamin Sheffield purchases the Lovell and Smith homesteads and begins construction on his Teton Lodge.

1906: Sheffied marries Margaret Rice, and the two manage the Lodge.

1907: Sheffield purchases the Allen property that includes the Elk Horn Hotel, the Moran post office and a small mercantile.

1910: A disastrous fire followed by a flood nearly levels the Teton Lodge. The Sheffields decide to rebuild and create a successful Lodge capable of housing up to 300 guests.

1911-1916: Jackson Lake dam construction brings a lot of business into the Moran area.

1929: Sheffield sells his property, effectively selling the town of Moran to the Snake River Land Company. The Company, seeing the advantage of keeping the Teton Lodge open for tourists, hands management over to the Teton Investment Company. In the 1950s, this would transform into the Grand Teton Lodge Company which manages the Jackson Lake Lodge today.

1935: The Teton Lodge’s main building burns down.

1950-59: The Grand Teton Lodge Company moves most of the old Sheffield cabins up to Colter Bay. What can’t be moved is torn or burned down. The town site is re-graded and re-vegetated. Today, nothing remains of the original town of Moran.

1955: The Jackson Lake Lodge is constructed.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Moran, Wyoming

The town of Moran is Jackson Hole’s first true tourist town. In 1895, Benjamin Sheffield came to the area near Jackson Lake and knew it would make the perfect location for a hunting lodge. Coming from the hunting tourist industry in Montana, he knew he had found something promising. With Marion Lambert as his financial backer, Sheffield purchased the Cap Smith and Fred Lovell homesteads in 1903 and began settling the area of Moran. It was slow going, as he could only work on his lodge during the summers.

Despite creating the settlement, Sheffield cannot be credited with naming the town of Moran. Charles and Maria Allen homesteaded the area in 1896 and operated the first Post Office on their ranch in 1902. Maria named it “Moran” and the area became commonly known by that name. The Allen ranch was located on Oxbow Bend and they operated the Elk Horn Hotel for several years before selling the property to Sheffield in 1925.

Moran was the northernmost outpost in Jackson Hole to receive supplies, post your mail, or find a comfortable place to sleep before heading north to Yellowstone, or south to Moose, Kelly, and Jackson. For those living in the area around Moran, it was the nearest place to obtain supplies as the trip south was difficult, and usually only undertaken once a year. As the valley grew up and road systems were built, and then maintained and became reliable, the journey south became easier, though still long. For those wishing to participate in the recreational activities of the time, dances were held at Moran and in nearby Elk for those who couldn’t make the trek south for anything but the big events. Equally important, for those wishing to participate in the annual Frontier Days celebrations in Jackson (the yearly rodeo), practice was a necessity. Weekly rodeos were held in Moran, outside Charlie Fesler’s store. They became a big draw for residents in the northern half of the valley to gather together, have fun and blow off steam while showcasing their talents.

Moran was also known as a “military town” due to the presence of the Reclamation Service constructing the dam on Jackson Lake, and the Yellowstone National Park Troops. The U.S. Army was the first government agency to manage the park until creation of the National Park Service in 1916. The park management wouldn’t officially transfer to the National Park Service until 1917. Moran was the northernmost settlement to the south entrance to Yellowstone, and the early troopers who worked at this entrance used Moran as a home base.

The town of Moran was mostly made up of federal government employees or locals who worked for Sheffield and his lodge. The rest were tourists, coming to and from Yellowstone. In the 1950s when the Grand Teton Lodge Company purchased Sheffield’s lodge, they essentially purchased the town of Moran. After the construction of the Jackson Lake Lodge, the ramshackle town was seen as an eyesore for the hotel guests wishing to look out on the wild beauty of Jackson Lake. The town was then moved from the shores of Jackson Lake and the dam further east, just outside the Moran entrance station for Grand Teton National Park. Today, Moran still exists as a small community in the northern half of Jackson Hole. It has a population of 317 people, a post office and a K-5 elementary school.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

John Sargent’s Merymere

In 1886 John Dudley Sargent first visited Jackson Hole and resolved to return to homestead. He returned home to Machias, Maine where he married Adelaide Crane and had two children, a son and a daughter. In 1889, the young family was in Jackson Hole and construction began on their 10-room house they named Merymere. Accompanying Sargent to help complete the work was partner Robert Ray Hamilton, a friend from Yale. That winter, Sargent and his family returned to Maine for the birth of their third child, a daughter. They returned to Jackson Hole in the summer of 1890 and started their roadside business in earnest. Located along the military road leading to Yellowstone’s south entrance, they catered to overnight visitors hoping to stop for a meal and a bed. The road construction had only just begun, so traffic and business were slow.

It seemed that the harsh winters in the valley drove the family to winter in Salt Lake City, where a fourth child was born. The Sargents would have one son and four daughters over the course of ten years, the last being born at the ranch in 1895. In 1891 tragedy struck the young family, and as a result rumors would begin that would plague Sargent for the rest of his life. His partner and friend, Ray Hamilton was found drowned after a hunting expedition. Sargent and Hamilton had made plans to hunt near the pot holes area of the valley, south of Signal Mountain. Sargent returned from the trip and had apparently risen the alarm that Hamilton was still missing. Several search parties were organized and all agreed that when Hamilton was found, a fire would be lit on the butte nearby. Thus, Signal Mountain received its name. Hamilton was found, hung up in the saddle, near a particularly dangerous channel of the Snake River. It is assumed that he drowned when the saddle turned while trying to ford at the dangerous location. Immediately, rumors spread that Sargent had given his friend intentional directions to cross at this spot, knowing that survival was unlikely. The validity of this account was never proven, but it appeared that valley residents were already wary of Sargent. It would seem little evidence was needed to label him as a suspicious character.

Sargent put the rumors behind him and led a happy, almost idyllic life in his beautiful corner of the valley. Other than the Sheffields, ten miles south at Moran, the Sargents held the only patented land along Jackson Lake. Only eight years later in 1897, the happy days for the family would end in another tragedy blanketed by yet more mystery. In the early spring, a couple Yellowstone troops stopped by the roadhouse, expecting to be invited in for food and intending to carry mail south to Moran. This was the usual course for these men, and they were surprised to find Sargent hesitant to let them inside. As no written record of this interaction survives, we don’t know what caused the men to hurry to Moran and announce their concerns about the Sargent family. Whatever was said to the town residents, it caused a small posse to hike up to the Sargent home, only to find John missing and Adelaide confined to her bed due to a severe injury.

It was thought that she had fractured her pelvis, but the cause of the injury was suspect. However, it was clear that she had been in need of medical attention, and that was withheld. The small posse realized that Adelaide would not survive in her condition and they attempted to transport her the 50 miles south to Jackson. They were only five miles out of town when Adelaide’s struggle ended and she died. Stories circulated that upon her last minutes, she was asked how she came to be so injured. She claimed she had “much to tell” if she survived, but otherwise the truth would stay with her; the cause of her injuries was never determined.

Adding more speculation to an already suspicious set of events, John was absent from the valley for the next two years. It is thought that he abandoned all five of his children, that they were eventually transported back to Maine to live with relatives. However, the second and fourth children, both daughters, appear to have remained in Jackson Hole. In 1899, Yellowstone troops happened upon Sargent near his property with his fourth child, Katherine, on a toboggan. As their report details, once he became aware of their presence he abandoned the toboggan and took off into the woods, evading capture. Katherine was brought into Moran where she lived with neighbors for some time. It is unclear where his second child Mary was at the time. Sargent would disappear again from the valley for some time.

He reemerged in 1906-1908 with a second wife, Edith. It is not known when or where they married, as it is thought that he was not living at Merymere in the preceding years. As usual, rumors spread that John was paid by Edith’s family to marry her and take her away. His daughter Katherine reappeared on the ranch for a time, but none of his other children were seen or heard from. It is believed they remained with family members in Maine. Edith and John lived mostly alone on the ranch, John being labeled a pariah by the rest of the valley. They led quiet lives, as the roadhouse was often bypassed for more comfortable lodgings in Moran. Neighbors and travelers reported seeing Edith sunbathing naked around the property, which led to rumors that John took her clothing to prevent her from running away. Others claimed she was simply a “child of nature,” and nothing was unusual about this behavior, other than it being highly unconventional for the time. More often, those passing through would see Edith in a large pine tree playing the violin. Music was highly valued by both Edith and John, who owned a grand piano and a Victrola. There was reportedly a nail embedded into the tree to hold her instrument when she was not playing.

In 1913 Edith was brought to San Diego, California for unknown reasons. John returned to his ranch in Jackson Hole and lived alone. Later that year Edith was committed, by persons unknown, to a sanatorium. Meanwhile at Merymere, John was living a very isolated life. This fact is confirmed by the two weeks that passed before he was found dead in his cabin, by travelers passing by who could smell the decomposing body from the road. They found him sitting in his rocking chair, a string tied to his toes and to his rifle. Within arm’s reach was his prized Victrola, with the record “Ye Who Have Yearned Alone” having completed its last rotations. It is thought that when the music ceased, so did John Dudley Sargent. When his body was found, several days later, he was covered in cotton and buried directly outside. His grave still exists, marked by a stone and fencing built by Slim Lawrence, founder of the Jackson Historical Society and Museum. His estate was later sold with the cabin and all of his belongings to Harry Wagner.

Wagner then sold the property to William Lewis Johnson in 1926; Johnson constructed a new ranch to the south of Sargent’s old homestead. Upon Johnson’s death in 1936, Alfred and Madeline Berolzheimer purchased the property and renamed it the AMK Ranch. Today, the AMK still exists, along with the Johnson and Berol buildings. The Sargent homestead site has disappeared except for Sargent’s grave marking the general location of his cabin. For those up for a challenge, Edith’s “violin tree” can also be found on the property, north of the grave and above the lakeshore.

 

TIMELINE

1886: John Dudley Sargent first arrives in Jackson Hole on vacation and decides to return to settle in the valley. At this point, only a small handful of individuals are living in the valley.

1890: Sargent arrives on his ranch for the first time with his wife and two children. His friend and business partner Robert Ray Hamilton joins the family and assists with construction of a 10-room cabin the Sargents call Merymere.

1891: Ray Hamilton doesn’t return from a hunting trip with Sargent. He is later found drowned, with his foot still in the stirrup after falling off his horse into the Snake River. A fire is lit on a nearby butte as a signal to other search teams that Hamilton has been found. Signal Mountain receives its name.

1897: Yellowstone troopers stop by Merymere on their way into Moran. They usually stop in for food and to bring mail into town, it is a routine event. They find Sargent acting unusually cagey and decide to head into Moran. Once in town they mention the encounter to the locals. A small posse goes up to the ranch to find Mrs. Sargent in bed with a broken pelvis, and John Sargent missing. They attempt to get Mrs. Sargent into town to see the doctor, but she dies 45 miles into the 50 mile trip. Sargent disappears from the valley for a few years, leaving his five children behind.

1899: Sargent reemerges in Jackson Hole and is pursued on foot by Yellowstone troops through the woods. He is spotted with his young daughter, who he abandons on a toboggan. The daughter is brought into Moran to live with neighbors. The rest of his children are assumed to be in Maine with extended family members. Another daughter is reported to be in Jackson Hole, but her whereabouts are unknown.

1906-1908: John Sargent appears back at Merymere with a new wife, Edith. They live a quiet, isolated life but are regularly seen on their homestead by neighbors and tourists traveling the military road to Yellowstone’s south entrance.

1913: Edith Sargent is brought to San Diego, California. It is unknown if she lives alone or with family, why she leaves John in Jackson Hole. It is thought that he brings her to California, but returns to Jackson Hole. Months later she is brought to a sanitarium. Around this time, John Sargent commits suicide in his cabin. He is found sitting in the living room, with a string tied to his foot and to his rifle’s trigger. At his side is his prized Victrola, having finished its last song. It is thought that when the song was over, Sargent pulled the string and ended his life. He was buried in a shallow grave directly outside his cabin, which was later marked and fenced by Slim Lawrence. Sargent’s grave is the only remaining piece of his cabin and homestead which were later torn down. The grave is located just north of the AMK Ranch.

1926: William Lewis Johnson purchases the property and constructs a new main cabin south of the old Sargent homestead. Merymere was left to the elements and eventually disappeared.

1936: Alfred and Madeline Berolzheimer purchased the ranch from the Johnson family and renamed it the AMK Ranch. They constructed a large main residence and used the Johnson building for a guest house.

2015: The Berol and Johnson cabins still remain on the property. Today the AMK Ranch is a research center for the University of Wyoming.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Jackson Hole Dam

Jackson Lake Dam

The first dam on Jackson Lake was built in 1906; it was intended for temporary purposes and built with temporary materials. The area around the outlet of Jackson Lake was not suitable for human habitation as high spring runoff from the mountains made much of the bottom lands too wet for building and susceptible to seasonal flooding. While the first dam helped somewhat, staving off the worst of the spring floods, it failed just four years later. Constructed of log rip-rap with dirt infill, it was in need of constant maintenance and would only raise the water of the lake by a few feet. It was deemed necessary to remove the damaged materials and rebuild a permanent structure.

In 1902, the Reclamation Act was signed by President Theodore Roosevelt to encourage further settlement of the arid west. The federal government would take on several projects meant to facilitate the flow of water to create better resources for agriculture. Dams, irrigation ditches, canals and reservoirs were built throughout the west. The idea was to create the necessary infrastructure to provide water for ranchers who were struggling on their 160 acre plots that were not suitable for anything but grazing. The government would provide the expertise and complete the construction, while the homesteaders would pay back the costs within ten years.

At Jackson Lake, the Reclamation Service built the dam with the intention of controlling lake levels for irrigation on farmlands on the Snake River in Idaho. With a growing population, Moran became an ideal site for locals to set up businesses that would cater to the dam workers. Benjamin Sheffield was one of the first to settle the town site, purchasing two homesteads outside the outlet of Jackson Lake in 1903. Sheffield saw the area as a prime location to set up a lodge as a base from which to lead hunting expeditions. His foresight was rewarded when the Reclamation Service decided to build a dam on Jackson Lake in 1906. This meant that the spring runoff would cease to flood his property and he could construct more cabins. It also allowed Sheffield to construct a toll bridge over the now predictable water. This bridge was one of just three crossings over the dangerous, twisting river that bisected the valley. The others were located at Menor’s Ferry and at the Jackson-Wilson Bridge in Wilson.

The Reclamation Service built their own camp that housed and fed the dam workers, and even included a hospital. They would later rebuild the Marysville road as the new Ashton-Moran Road in 1910 to bring in supplies for the construction. Frank T. Crowe was the project supervisor, and ordered over 300,000 tons of equipment to service the construction project. The Ashton-Moran Road, which still exists today, continued to be a popular route to transport supplies into the valley after the dam was finished. The Reclamation Service dominated the population of Moran, and the area became known as a “military town.”

Construction on the new dam began in 1911, and continued until 1916. By this time the town had a stable economy due the amount of visitors traveling to and from Yellowstone National Park. The 1916 dam still exists today, having been reinforced in 1986-89 in order to meet new requirements for earthquakes.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Triangle X Ranch

Triangle X Ranch

In 1908 President Theodore Roosevelt signed an executive order that expanded the Teton National Forest and eliminated the Yellowstone National Forest. As a result, lands in the eastern half of the valley that had been previously part of the Yellowstone National Forest were open for homesteading. In the next year there was a small land rush for this area, as it was prime land for agriculture. With the best access to water, the Buffalo Fork and Spread Creek areas were the first to fill up. William “Bill” Jump located a homestead on Lost Creek and began improvements to receive his patent. Nearby, Jack Fee also established a homestead. Both men cultivated their land and constructed dwellings that no longer exist today. Fee cultivated around 30 acres, while Jump who worked as a wrangler at the Bar BC Dude Ranch only cleared seven.

John S. Turner had been traveling to the valley for both hunting and camping trips. He and his wife, Maytie, found a favorite campsite situated above the Jump homestead. In 1926 when Jump was ill in the hospital, Turner offered him twice the value of his land and it was sold. The Turners began construction of a basement for a log home that fall, and ran the property as a hunting camp to bring in extra cash. By early winter, the house was finished. The Turner men stayed in the house that first winter. The next summer the entire Turner family moved permanently to Jackson Hole from Utah after selling their home. The family had initially planned to farm the land for potatoes but found the growing season too short and the winters too harsh. They then turned to the more lucrative business of dude ranching, and turned their cultivated acreage to raising cattle and hay.

By 1927 the family had expanded to 20 dudes and purchased the nearby Jack Fee homestead for a total of 320 acres. They continued to cultivate their land to raise hay for the horses. The partially finished Fee homestead cabin was moved to the Triangle X as the first ten log courses on the barn. Today, the original log courses can still be seen on the barn, they are noticeable due to their different corner notching. Fee had intended to use dovetail notches on his cabin, while the barn was finished in square notches. The barn housed the dairy cows that provided the ranch and several nearby ranches with fresh dairy products.

In 1929 the Turners were one of few in the valley who knew the purpose behind the Snake River Land Company’s move in purchasing several thousand acres of homesteads. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. was the secret financial backer with a plan to donate these recently purchased lands to the federal government for conservation. The Turner family sold their land to the Company in exchange for a lease to continue dude ranching operations. At first the lease was paid with one-third of the hay harvest. The next year, they renegotiated for 10% of the ranch revenue. These types of deals in the valley were rare, as Rockefeller had most of the homesteads and ranches that he purchased torn down. Since the ranch was on the far eastern border of the valley, not blocking scenic views of the Tetons, the Turners’ buildings remained. There were also few options for overnight accommodations between Jackson and Yellowstone, other than those at Moran, so Rockefeller felt it was important to keep these two sites open. Rockefeller would later replace the Teton Lodge at Moran with the Jackson Lake Lodge in 1955.

The Turners would continue to operate the Triangle X on the Rockefeller lease until 1950, when the property transferred to Grand Teton National Park ownership. By 1950 the Turner family owned three ranches in the valley. John S. and Maytie left the Triangle X ranch in 1936 to their son John C and opened the Turpin Meadows Lodge. In 1942, John S. and Maytie handed the Turpin Meadows Lodge to their other sons, Bert and Reed and opened the Buffalo River Ranch. In 1952 they sold the Buffalo River Ranch and retired to the town of Jackson, where they remained until January of 1968 when Maytie died, and John S. followed in April. In 1953, Grand Teton extended a concession license to John C. Turner and his wife Louise, and the Triangle X became the only dude ranch to operate within Park boundaries. Today, John C. and Louise’s three sons Harold, John and Donald (third generation) continue to run the ranch. The fourth generation of Turners currently works on the ranch.

TIMELINE

1909: William “Bill” Jump settles on what would become the Triangle X Dude Ranch. He is part of a small land rush in the eastern part of the valley near the Buffalo Fork and Lost Creek area. This was prime land and had previously been closed to homesteading as it was part of the National Forest. Neighbor Jack Fee settles on his claim in the same year.

1915: Jack Fee receives the patent for his homestead. He cultivates 30 acres of land, while Jump only uses seven of his. Jump spends most of his summers working as a wrangler at the Bar BC Dude Ranch.

1925: Jump receives the patent for his land.

1926: John S. “Dad” Turner and his wife Maytie had been visiting Jackson Hole regularly for years, and their favorite campsite was directly above Bill Jump’s homestead. This summer, Jump is sick in the hospital and unable to care for his ranch. Turner approaches Jump and offers to pay double for the land, and Jump agrees.

1927: The Turners purchase the Jack Fee homestead next door, and expand to 320 acres.

1928: The main house on the ranch is finished with 6 dude cabins, housing 20 dudes. The Turners had originally planned to farm their land, but found the growing season too short and winters too harsh. Like most in the valley, they turned to the more popular business of dude ranching. They started out hosting hunting trips in their unfinished house but soon expanded to summer guests.

1929: When the Snake River Land Company approached the Turners to purchase the land, they were one of few in the valley who knew the true purpose behind the Company. They sold with the agreement that they could continue to lease the ranch and host dudes.

1930: The lease is signed allowing the Turners to continue to host dudes and raise cattle. They continue to cultivate 113 acres of land.

1936: John S. and Maytie leave their son, John C. to continue operating the Triangle X. They move to Turprin Meadows where they open the Turpin Meadows Lodge, another guest ranch.

1942: John S. and Maytie leave Turpin Meadows Lodge to their sons Bert and Reed Turner. They purchase the Charlie Neal homestead and open the Buffalo River Ranch.

1950: Expansion of Grand Teton National Park means the ranch is now owned by the National Park Service.

1952: John S. and Maytie sell the Buffalo River Ranch and retire to the town of Jackson.

1953: Grand Teton National Park extends concession license to John C. and wife Louise Turner. The Triangle X Dude Ranch continues to be the only operating dude ranch within Grand Teton National Park and is still run by the third generation of Turners. Harold, John and Donald Turner, sons of John C. and Louise run the partnership. The family’s fourth generation continues to work on the ranch.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

The Elk Ranch

The Elk Ranch

Josiah David “Si” Ferrin first arrived in Jackson Hole in 1900 from Ogden Valley, Utah. He had been in the valley previously, during work as a cattle driver. His work took him through most of western Wyoming, but Jackson Hole had made an impression. He settled on land near Twin Creek on today’s Elk Refuge. Despite doing all the necessary work to receive the patent on his homestead, he kept an eye on the events in the northern portion of the valley. Si desperately wanted to ranch on the land near the Buffalo Fork, where the soil and water resources could support a large cattle ranch. In 1908 he heard the good news that the land was opened for homesteading, and immediately upon receiving the patent for his Twin Creek homestead, sold it and moved to the Buffalo Valley. President Roosevelt had signed an executive order Here he staked his claim and began work to prove up on the new parcel of land, receiving his patent in 1913. Meanwhile, Ferrin’s neighbors were equally hard at work. Otto Kusche filed on the land that would later become the Elk Ranch. He cleared 13 acres, planted alfalfa, built a house, barn, and storeroom. Most importantly, he dug the O.K. Ditch to irrigate his lands. Nearby, Ferrin had already begun to purchase adjacent homesteads, starting with the acquisition of the Thompson homestead in 1911.

In 1912, D.E. Skinner arrived in Jackson Hole on a hunting expedition. Like Ferrin, Skinner also realized that the Buffalo Valley has excellent land for cattle ranching; he resolved to return. In 1916 Skinner came back and purchased the Otto Kusche homestead, the same year that Kusche received his patent. Over the next decade, Skinner and Ferrin bought up the majority of the homesteads in the Buffalo Valley. Ferrin became incredibly successful after signing a contract with the Reclamation Service at Moran to supply them with beef for the dam workers at Jackson Lake. In addition to that contract, he provided a freighting service for the Reclamation service, and opened up a saw mill on his ranch. Out-performed, Skinner sold his Elk Ranch to Ferrin in 1920. By 1928, the Ferrin family owned an impressive total of 3,629.09 acres. They ran over 2,000 head of cattle, and Si Ferrin became known as “the cattle baron of Jackson Hole.”

Si had almost 14 children by two different wives, and 9 of them were sons. He had no lack of help on the ranch, his sons ran the freighting and saw mill ventures on the side. As the largest landowner in Jackson Hole, Ferrin became increasingly worried about development – as did many of his neighbors. In 1927 he sat down with neighbors J. Pierce Cunningham and Struthers Burt to write a petition in support of asking a federal agency to protect the land. Those that signed the petition were concerned that without the federal government’s protection, the valley would fall into the hands of commercial development and their ability to ranch and raise cattle would be severely curtailed. Cunningham and Burt were of the opinion that the valley was better suited for recreation rather than cattle ranching. They persuaded 97 of the valley residents to sign the document. By the end of 1927, the Snake River Land Company was formed with the silent backing of John D. Rockefeller Jr. The Company was formed separately from the petition, and the valley residents were not included in the plans.

When the Snake River Land Company began buying up parcels of land throughout Jackson Hole, rumors spread about the intentions for the land. Forced to explain their purpose, Rockefeller was revealed to be the backer and their plans for donation to the National Park Service became public. Despite the intention being equal with that of the petition, the locals were incensed that they were not part of the process. Despite the political turmoil that ensued, Ferrin wanted to support the cause and sold all of his holdings in 1928. In return he received $114,662.12 for all 3,629.09 acres. He moved his family into the town of Jackson and invested in a feedlot in Idaho. In a few short months, he was bankrupt due to the crash of the market and Great Depression. Needing funds, Ferrin found a job with Ben Goe at the Cowboy Bar. He was the night watchman and famously shot at his own reflection in the bar mirror, thinking it was an intruder. He is remembered for his work in building up the highly successful Elk Ranch, rather than the struggles he encountered later in life. Ferrin is reported to be the first to introduce oats and white-faced cattle into Jackson Hole.

After the Snake River Land Company purchased the Elk Ranch, they recognized the financial benefits of keeping the ranch intact and working. The ranch was also located on the eastern side of the valley, and therefore did not block any scenic views of the Tetons. The 1930-1940s the company transitioned to become the Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. and leased the property out to continue raising cattle to supply World War II needs. The Preserve improved the ranch infrastructure, constructing the Uhl Reservoir to allow a constant source of water for the hay fields. Without continued use, the water rights would be taken away due to state regulations. Hay continued to be raised on the property and was used to supply the nearby National Elk Refuge with winter feed. During this time the Preserve also recognized that it was important to keep the “western character” of the valley alive. Tourists were allowed to visit the Elk Ranch to view operations in an effort to demonstrate the importance of cattle ranching on the early valley settlement economy.

In 1950 when the property transferred to the National Park Service, which continued to maintain the hayfields and winter their horses on the ranch. An exception to the rule, this meant that the park honored the grazing permits that had been in use for the last 25 years. The Elk Ranch also served the National Park Service by supplying meat and dairy for the various lodges in Grand Teton National Park. Overtime, however, the grazing permits ran out, with one permit remaining as of 2010. Today, many of the Elk Ranch buildings still stand on the property, mostly used as storage.

TIMELINE

1900: Josiah David “Si” Ferrin settled his homestead on Twin Creek near the town of Jackson.

1908: Ferrin receives the patent for his Twin Creek homestead. He sells the land when he hears that the Buffalo Valley is finally open for homesteading and rushes to stake his own claim. Successful, he names his new property the JF Ranch and begins work to receive a patent for his land.

1909: Otto Kusche files for a claim on the present-day Elk Ranch land. He clears 13 acres, plants alfalfa and digs the O.K. ditch for irrigation. He builds a house, barn, storeroom, and cellar. None of the Kusche buildings exist today.

1911: Si Ferrin purchases the Thompson homestead.

1912: D.E. Skinner arrives in Jackson Hole to hunt. He was guided by Jim Budge and realized the valley would be an excellent location for a cattle ranch.

1913: Ferrin receives a patent for his new homestead in the Buffalo Valley.

1914: Si Ferrin signs a contract with the Reclamation Service to provide beef for the Jackson Lake Dam workers. This lucrative deal would bring in a lot of cash that Ferrin would use to increase his holdings for a large cattle ranch. In addition to the Reclamation Service contract, Ferrin also provides freighting and saw mill services to the valley. This same year he purchases Joe Heniger’s homestead.

1916: Otto Kusche receives the patent for his ranch and sells it to Skinner later that year. The property is named the Elk Ranch by Skinner.

1917: Skinner forms a partnership with Val Allen and buys his land.

1918: Si Ferrin purchases the Marius Kristensen homestead.

1919: Skinner purchases the 750 acre Hatchet Ranch, owned by Jack Shive. He has 2,000
cattle on the ranch.

1920: Si Ferrin purchases the Elk Ranch from D.E. Skinner, who keeps the Hatchet Ranch. This year Ferrin earns himself the nickname “the cattle baron of Jackson Hole.”

1927: Ferrin purchases the McInelly’s 520 acres (his second wife’s family ranch).

1928: Ferrin purchases the Thornton homestead. The family now holds 3,629.09 acres total.

1928-1929: Ferrin sells his 1,708.74 acres to the Snake River Land Company, and his sons sold their acreage as well. The SRLC paid $114,662.12 for the lot.
Ray Ferrin: 643.57 acres
Leonard Ferrin: 640 acres
Ferrin Family: 640 acres

1929: Ferrin invests in a feedlot in Idaho. In a few short months he becomes bankrupt in the stock market crash and following Depression.

1930-1940: The Elk Ranch continues to raise hay, and was managed by the Snake River Land Company.

1940s: The Jackson Hole Preserve Inc. leases the property to renew cattle ranching for the WWII effort.

1943: The property becomes part of the Jackson Hole National Monument.

1950: The property becomes part of Grand Teton National Park. Some of the Elk Ranch structures still remain.

2015: NPS still leases out the Elk Ranch land for grazing in the summer months.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Hatchet Ranch

Hatchet Ranch

John “Jack” Shive was discharged from his post at Fort Yellowstone in 1889, made his way south and claimed a homestead along the Buffalo Fork with squatter’s rights. Shive had originally joined the army in New York City when he was assigned to Fort Yellowstone. The land he was squatting on along the Buffalo Fork River would not open for homesteading until 1908, under an executive order of President Theodore Roosevelt. As soon as it opened, Shive was able to apply for his patent; he received it the same year because the residency and construction requirements had already been met. In 1897 he met and married Lucy Wadams Nesbitt. This would be Lucy’s third marriage, having divorced her two previous husbands. She had one daughter, Carrie Nesbitt who later joined her mother in Jackson Hole. Carrie immediately loved her stepfather, affectionately calling him “Daddy Shive.”

Lucy and Jack had a long and happy marriage – in large part because Lucy was not kept in the home, but welcomed on the range to care for the cattle. In return, Lucy taught Jack how to repair his own shirts and even embroider. The couple prided themselves on being equally adept both in and outside of the home. Lucy held many different interests from taxidermy to photography. She had boundless energy that was usually occupied during the summer months with ranch chores, but the long winter months needed to be filled with activity. Another favorite pastime was to play violin or banjo at area dances. She was apparently not terribly skilled at either, but her vigorous playing made up for it. The couple often joined their neighbors at the Elk or Moran school houses and danced all night, returning home in the morning light. Neighbors would pack up food for midnight dinners and children would be put to bed along the edges of the room. It was rare that neighbors got together for such occasions and the unplowed winter roads were dangerous in the dark, so they preferred to dance through the night.

In 1911, Lucy’s mother Mary “Maw” Wadams moved to Jackson Hole at 80 years old and settled on her own homestead claim adjacent to Lucy and Jack. She refused to vacate her cabin during the long winters, insisting that she could care for herself. Four years later she received the patent to her land, expanding the Shive holdings to 480 acres. When Carrie married William Dunn, they file on another adjacent parcel, receiving the patent in 1920. The Shive family also hired on a ranch hand, Ben Kilky, who proved up on another parcel that was purchased by the family. By 1921, the Shive ranch had increased to 800 acres. Later that year, the ranch was purchased by David E. Skinner, who owned the nearby Elk Ranch. They likely sold due to the fall of beef prices after the close of World War I and the severe drought that ruined crops across the valley in 1919. The Shives then left the valley, retiring in Idaho. Skinner named the property the Hatchet Ranch after a cattle brand he had acquired in 1917.

Over the next several decades the ranch would transfer through several hands before 1953 when Highway #287 was constructed, bisecting the center of the ranch. The current owner, W.B. Campbell decided to construct the Hatchet Motel to serve a new type of tourist entering the valley, the automobile vacationer. After World War II ended and families were encouraged to vacation to resume normal lives, the automobile became the central focus for many vacationers. Roads had become reliable and the interstate system would be created in 1956. Now families could travel at their leisure, seeing as many or as little sites as they wished. Previously, railroads had held a monopoly on vacation travel, as they were the only safe and reliable way to cross the country. Traveling by rail took time, however, and often required a long stay at one’s destination to make the journey worth the effort. With the advent of the automobile, tourists could now be on more flexible schedules. With higher amounts of traffic on the roads, road-side businesses began popping up all over the country. Those traveling needed services like food, gas and overnight accommodations. With the new highway going through the ranch lands, a motel became a lucrative venture.

After W.B. Campbell sold the ranch, it passed through several more owners until 1981 when Don Albrecht purchased both the Hatchet and the adjacent Feuz Ranch, combining the two. Later in 1991, after a public sale, the Jackson Hole Land Trust and U.S. Forest Service would create a partnership with Richard and Barbara Carlsberg to purchase the land under a conservation easement. The Land Trust and the Forest Service jointly purchased 70 acres, while the Carlsbergs got the majority, 680 acres. The conservation easement was intended to prevent the property from becoming developed. Today, the Hatchet Resort continues to host guests and the ranch continues to raise cattle.

TIMELINE

1889: John “Jack” Shive is discharged from his post at Fort Yellowstone, travels south to Jackson Hole and claims a homestead on the Buffalo Fork by squatter’s rights.

1897: Jack meets and marries Lucy Wadam Nesbitt, and she moves to the Jackson Hole ranch.

1898: Shive is part of the first documented summit of the Grand Teton with Franklin Spalding, William Owen and Frank Peterson. The group finds the famous Owen-Spalding route. Debate continues today as to whether the Owen-Spalding group had the first or second ascent.

1900: The Shives acquire the first water rights on the Buffalo Fork for their ranch.

1908: Jack receives the patent for their homestead. 1908 marks the end of the Yellowstone National Forest and the creation of the Teton National Forest. The National Forest boundaries shift and thousands of acres in Jackson Hole open for the first time. Because Jack’s residency and construction requirements are preexisting on the property, he is immediately approved for his patent.

1911: Lucy’s mother Mary Wadams (80 years old) moves to the ranch to be with her daughter. She lives in her own homestead cabin and files for her own homestead. Mary refuses to move in with the family during the long cold winters, insisting that she can care for herself.

1913: Mary receives the patent on her homestead and the Shives gain an additional 160 acres of land.

1915: Lucy’s daughter Carrie Nesbitt, having married William Dunn, files for an adjacent 160 acre parcel.

1920: The Dunn patent is issued and the Shives now own close to 800 acres. A ranch hand, Ben Kilky is hired to file on an additional homestead, adding another 160 acres to the ranch. This same year the Shives sell the ranch to David E. Skinner of the nearby Elk Ranch. D.E. Skinner names the Shive property the Hatchet Ranch for the cattle brand he had acquired earlier in 1917.

1920s: Soon after Skinner purchased the property and kept it separate from the sale of his lands to Josiah “Si” Ferrin, he sold it to Jake Smith.

1920s-1950: After a bank foreclosure, Amasa James acquired the ranch and sold it to W.B. Campbell.

1953: Highway #287 is constructed directly through the Hatchet Ranch, and W.B. Campbell decides to build the Hatchet Motel directly on the new highway.

1955: The Hatchet Motel opens. The Motel was built on land that was later added to the original Shive acreage.

1981: After several different owners, the Hatchet Ranch and the nearby Feuz Ranch are purchased together and joined by Don Albrecht.

1991: The Jackson Hole Land Trust, U.S. Forest Service (70 acres jointly) and Richard and Barbara Carlsberg (680 acres) purchase the property in a partnership. A conservation easement is placed upon the Hatchet Ranch to prevent the land from being developed. The Shive ranch is called Hatchet I and the Feuz ranch is called Hatchet II.

2015: The Hatchet Ranch continues to operate today as a resort.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Elk, Wyoming

Located in the northeastern portion of the valley, the Elk post office was created to service the families living in the Buffalo Fork and Spread Creek areas. The post office first opened on the Cunningham Ranch in 1899. In rural Jackson Hole, “communities” were loosely based around which post office was closest, or the easiest to access. Other communities, like Mormon Row, Moran, and Kelly grew up into small town sites with measurable populations. Areas like Elk, however, were a collection of ranches located miles apart from any central gathering space. In order to give residents of these isolated areas reason to gather, they built post offices for communication and school houses for gathering. For many residents in Jackson Hole, attending school was a feat best accomplished in winter when families would separate, the mother and children moving away to live near schools in Kelly or Jackson. The fathers would remain on the ranch, caring for the horses and livestock.

For those left behind, if school was not in session, or inaccessible due to early winter snows, gatherings were essential for survival during the long dark months. Many families would bundle up their children and food supplies and attend days-long dances that often went on well into the small hours of the morning. It was too difficult and dangerous to attempt the journey home after nightfall, so the gatherings would feature midnight dinners and all-night dancing so partygoers could return home in the morning light. Children were often tucked away into cubbies that lined the walls or lined up under tables. Despite living many miles apart from each other, these events were essential for the survival and continued cooperation of the community.

By 1968, the population of Jackson Hole had grown, roads had been built and mail was more easily transported from the larger post offices. As a result, the Elk post office closed. The remaining residents in the area, the Triangle X and Moose Head dude ranches, could now easily obtain their mail from Jackson. The old post office building still resides on the Moose Head ranch, a small reminder of the valley’s humble beginnings.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Cunningham Ranch

John Pierce Cunningham was one of the first homesteaders in Jackson Hole, arriving in 1885 from New York. Reports vary, but most claim that he hunted and trapped for a few years before finding a wife and settling down in 1888. In 1888-1889 John and his wife Margaret built a modest cabin, which still stands today. By 1895, the cabin was used as a barn and as a blacksmith shop. In 1899, the Elk Post Office opened on their ranch, with Maggie Cunningham as the post master. A year later, the office moved to the Wolff Ranch. The Cunninghams lived in the early cabin while they had a larger house built to the northeast. The existing cabin is known as a “dog trot” or “double pen” construction. The saddle-v notched corners are of Appalachian origin. One of the earliest examples of homesteading architecture in the valley, the Cunningham cabin was strongly influenced by the style of log cabins typically seen in the east.

Cunningham owned or worked land near Flat Creek, it is unclear which but it was here in 1893 that he learned of a posse gathering to arrest two reported horse thieves at his ranch up north. He declined to take part, and waited to hear news of the events in town. Reports vary on the story, claiming that Cunningham had given the suspects, Mike Burnett and George Spencer, permission to use his ranch over the winter. Other say that they were squatting on the ranch, finding it empty. Some report that one of the men had come into town to brag about stealing horses and alerted suspicions. Others say that Cunningham went to check on the men after giving them permission to use his ranch and, noticing altered brands on the horses, raised the alarm himself.

Whatever the truth of the story, a posse did depart from Jackson intent on taking the thieves in. Making the situation more suspicious are two men who claimed to have been following the horse thieves through Montana and Idaho. They claimed to be lawmen, who gathered up men in town and “deputized” them in order to make things legal. This loosely organized posse rode up to the ranch at night to prevent scaring the horse thieves off. They expected it to be an easy capture. The next morning, they made their presence known but the two horse rustlers declined to surrender. When the thieves opened fire on the posse, they were outnumbered and killed in minutes. Their bodies were carried a short distance to the nearby creek and buried.

The locals decided to never talk of the incident again; they had become uneasy about the true identities of the two deputies who led the posse and worried that the two men at the Cunningham cabin were not horse thieves at all. When the posse had arrived on the ranch, there apparently were no horses to be found. Those involved reasoned that the thieves may have already taken the horses out of the valley, and returned to gather some items. It was possible though that rather than serving justice, the locals who had joined the posse had actually committed murder. Details of this incident, known commonly as the “Cunningham Ranch incident” were purposely confused and conflicting. No one wanted the true story told, and risk imprisonment or worse. The valley of Jackson Hole had come a long way in cleaning up their reputation from being known as a haven for bands of outlaws and thieves. No one wanted to tarnish the image the new community of Jackson was trying to portray. It is not known exactly where the two alleged thieves were buried. Reports of badgers digging up their bones serve to skew the true information of where they might actually been buried. Some oral and written evidence survives describing the location of the graves, but they contain conflicting information. After the Incident, Cunningham continued to live and work on his ranch, undeterred by the violence that had taken place. In his later years, he proved to be the only “old-timer” who would even speak about the event. But whether his stories were based on fact or fiction is still not known. He may have intended to keep the fictional elements alive when people began digging into history and rediscovered the Incident at the Cunningham Ranch.

In 1909 Cunningham sold his ranch to J.P. Nelson, who owned the Jackson Hotel. Earlier this year, Cunningham had been granted a second patent for his land under the Desert Land Act of 1877. He used 140 of these additional 160 acres for raising hay, the remaining 20 were for his cattle. Cunningham and Nelson agreed to a swap, with Nelson turning to ranching and Cunningham turning to town life. In town, the Nelsons had owned the Jackson Hotel. After only a few years, Cunningham missed his ranch and Nelson agreed to sell it back, purchasing his own 160 acres just to the south. In 1914 when Cunningham moved back to his ranch, he also acquired the Bar Flying U brand, along with the lands and cattle from the nearby Uhl ranch. Cunningham’s original brand, a connected JP, was too similar to the one that J.P. Nelson had used, JPN, in his absence. Now that Nelson was living so nearby, Cunningham wanted to make sure they could tell their cattle apart. Cunningham purchased the nearby Uhl ranch and continued to use their brand to keep things orderly. The Cunningham Ranch was now known as the Bar Flying U Ranch.

Cunningham, with Struthers Burt and neighbor Josiah Ferrin, was one of the biggest proponents in the valley for keeping the land protected. In 1927, Cunningham, Burt and Ferrin wrote and distributed a petition describing the need for a federal entity to assume management of the valley. Drought and falling beef prices after World War I had ravaged crops in the valley. Cunningham in particular was hit hard by the drought. They argued that the best use for the remaining open lands in the valley was for “recreation,” and they persuaded 97 of their neighbors to sign the petition. The idea was to relieve the pressure of taxes but still run a profit from ranching. The ranchers could sell their lands with a lease, allowing them to continue ranching operations without being financially responsible for the land. If continued ranching proved to be too difficult, they could simply walk away.

Many who signed the petition had previously against a National Park extension, or anything relating to the federal government taking the lands back. While all this happened decades before Grand Teton National Park would appear as it does today, the petition caught the attention of the men who were working to create the Snake River Land Company, secretly backed by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. This separate operation had been forming since Rockefeller’s first visit to the valley in 1926. The Company formed officially in 1927 and began approaching homesteaders with offers to purchase their lands. Their intention in keeping Rockefeller’s name hidden was to prevent land appraisals from skyrocketing.

Cunningham wanted to prove his commitment to protecting the valley; he was one of the first to sell his ranch in 1928. He was also one of very few valley residents who understood what the eventual plans would be for his homestead. In 1930, Rockefeller announced his involvement with the Snake River Land Company due to rampant rumors that the Company was purchasing exhausted homesteads to sell at a profit. This was the exact situation the 97 residents who signed the petition was afraid of. Rather than receiving support for “saving” the lands of Jackson Hole, Rockefeller was reviled. The valley residents had worked hard on their ranches, and felt that this was another example of the federal government stepping in to take their rights as landowners away. Had Rockefeller been open about his intentions from the start, he likely would have been supported.

After the sale of his ranch, Cunningham left Jackson Hole and settled in Victor, Idaho. In 1943, his ranch would be part of the Jackson Hole National Monument, made up of lands purchased by Rockefeller. Seven years later in 1950, after much political turmoil, the Rockefeller lands would be incorporated into the expansion of Grand Teton National Park. Today only the original cabin remains on the property, the barn, shed, corrals and large ranch home were all taken down. The Cunningham cabin is the oldest homesteading-era structure left in the park, a reminder of the turbulent days of early settlement in the valley.

 

TIMELINE

1885: John Pierce Cunningham arrives in Jackson Hole, hearing about the success of other trappers. He remains in the valley for three years before he marries his wife, Margaret, and the two settle on a piece of land south of Spread Creek.

1889: Cunningham builds a modest cabin that was later converted to use as a barn.

1893: Mike Burnett and George Spencer, reported horse thieves are killed at the Cunningham cabin. The shooting would later become known only as the “incident at the Cunningham ranch.”

1899: The Elk Post Office opens on the Cunningham Ranch, with Maggie Cunningham as the post master that year. The next year it transferred to the Wolff family.

1900-4: Cunningham continues to make improvements on his land, adding a large ranch house, barn, shed and corrals. By this time, Cunningham had cultivated 100 acres of land for his growing cattle operation.

1906: Cunningham receives his patent for 160 acres.

1909: Cunningham sells his ranch to the Nelsons, and adds 160 additional acres under the Desert Land Act of 1877. In return for this ranch, J.P. Nelson gives Cunningham the Jackson Hotel. The two families swap lives, trading ranching for town living.

1914-15: Cunningham purchases his ranch back from Nelson, also acquiring the nearby Uhl ranch land and brand, the Bar Flying U. The Nelsons purchase a homestead just to the south of the Cunningham ranch. Jack Eynon takes over hotel management from the Cunninghams.

1927: Cunningham, along with neighbors Josiah Ferrin and Struthers Burt, circulate a petition throughout the valley calling for federal protection of their lands. Ninety-seven neighbors sign the document, many previously opposed to selling their land back to the federal government. Later this year, the Snake River Land Company forms with John D. Rockefeller Jr. as the secret backer.

1928: Cunningham becomes one of the first to sell his ranch to the Snake River Land Company. He departs the valley and settles in Victor, Idaho.

1943: The Cunningham ranch becomes part of the Jackson Hole National Monument. All buildings except for the original ranch cabin are removed.

1950: The Cunningham cabin becomes part of Grand Teton National Park. Today, it is the oldest structure in the park.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach

Hunter Hereford Ranch

James Williams moved into the valley at 27 years old in 1908, and filed on his homestead north of Ditch Creek. He constructed a square log home with a hipped roof, and showed surprising skill in homebuilding for a younger man. By the time he received his patent in 1915, Williams had cultivated 100 acres with oats, barley and alfalfa, constructed a house and stables and acquired water rights to Ditch Creek. The other 60 acres were used for a house site and pasture. With ample ability to irrigate his fields, Williams was successful and declined to sell his lands to the Snake River Land Company. Instead, he sold them to Preston Redmond in 1931. The Redmonds kept the land until 1944 when they sold the property to William “Bill” and Eileen Hunter.

The Hunters were newly retired from a successful car sales business. They purchased the ranch with the intention to settle on it for retirement. In the 1940s a new type of ranch was emerging in the valley, the “hobby ranch.” The Hunters did not need their ranch to generate income, but only to support itself. They were not interested in working the land themselves, but hired caretakers to oversee their cattle and fields. They hired John Anderson, who lived in the old James Williams cabin year-round. For their family and friends, the Hunters hired an architect from Utah to design a large ranch house on a small hill above the Williams buildings. Eber Piers, an architect from Salt Lake City, Utah designed the ranch house, barn and associated support buildings. The Hunters housed staff in small cabins behind their large 2,700 square foot home.

The barn that was designed by Piers was an attempt to create a modern building that fit in with the more rustic style found throughout the valley. Nearby barns at Mormon Row were constructed from logs piece by piece and had a modest appearance. The Hunters wanted to emulate the building materials used on Mormon Row but on a more impressive scale. The resulting barn, despite being inspired by the small rustic structures nearby, is anything but rustic. The barn was built onto a foundation of cement, with an enormous hayloft that was well beyond the engineering capabilities of the early homesteaders. The barn was electrified and plumbed, where the early homes in the valley were without these modern amenities. The hayloft was also designed to hold dances and featured a staircase rather than a ladder. The impressive structure still stands today.

Only a handful of years into retirement, and barely a year after they had moved onto their ranch, Bill died. Eileen continued to own the ranch and invited family and friends to visit. In 1957, Eileen sold the ranch to Grand Teton National Park with a life lease. At the time of the sale, the Hunters had acquired 520 acres of land and raised purebred Hereford cattle. They obtained the cattle from the nearby Hardeman ranch, which was known for its prized stock. However, in 1955, Eileen decided to switch operation from raising purebred to raising commercial cattle, no longer depending solely on the Hardeman Herefords.

The ranch was also used as a movie set for the film The Wild Country in the 1960s. Many of the original James Williams homestead buildings were altered slightly in order to fit a more romanticized Hollywood interpretation of what western architecture should look like. The alterations to the buildings were only done on the northern elevations that would be visible in the movie and could be easily removed. The wooden shingle roofs were covered in wood planking, and walls were covered with vertical log-slab siding. The most obvious alteration can be seen on the open hay shed, which was built up to resemble a church. The structure was originally open on all four sides and supported by posts. Just the north elevation was visible in the movie; this wall was enclosed with clapboard siding, and faux windows were installed with Greek Revival decorative pediments.

In 1985, Eileen Hunter died and the ranch transitioned to the ownership of Grand Teton National Park. The park granted the Triangle X Dude Ranch a permit to use the property until 1991 when the permit was terminated. At this time several buildings were removed from the property: the staff cabins were moved to the Climber’s Ranch (formerly the Double Diamond Dude Ranch) near Lupine Meadows. The large architect-designed ranch home was moved to the Kelly Campus of the Teton Science Schools, located just to the south. Today, the buildings from the “working ranch” remain which includes the barn, storage sheds, hay shed, chicken coop and the Williams’ homestead house.

TIMELINE

1908: James Williams files for a 160-acre homestead claim on land along Aspen Ridge. He planned to cultivate 105 acres and use the rest for pasture and a house site.

1908-1931: Williams continues to homestead successfully and purchases an adjoining property. Williams grew oats and alfalfa, acquired water rights to the J.S. Domestic Ditch and to the North and South Ditch Creek canals. He used W Lazy J as his brand and kept several cattle.

1931: Williams sold his ranch to Preston Redmond. The Redmond family owned and maintained the ranch for several years.

1944: William and Eileen Hunter purchase the land from Ida Redmond. They intend to use the ranch as a retirement hobby. The Hunters had already acquired considerable wealth and money was not an issue in building the necessary improvements for them to move in. They decided to partner with Earl Hardeman and raised his prized Hereford cattle on their ranch. The Hunters hired a caretaker to oversee management of the working ranch. John Anderson and his family lived in the Foreman’s House, which was original built by James Williams as his homestead. The working ranch included raising hay and cattle. The “living ranch” was Eileen’s domain as she played host to family and friends. The Hunters owned 520 acres of land, they bought up other adjacent parcels.

1945: they constructed a large 2,700sqft log home, designed by Salt Lake City architect Eber Piers. The home stood on a hill overlooking the working ranch. They also constructed a guest cabin and servant’s housing on this hill as well. It was later all removed by the Park
Service.

1951: Bill Hunter dies.

1955: The ranch changes from a purebred Hereford operation to a commercial cattle operation.

1957: Eileen Hunter sells the ranch to the GTNP with a life estate lease. She remains on the ranch until her death.

1985: Eileen Hunter dies and the NPS assumes management of the ranch. The NPS leases the property to the Triangle X Dude Ranch.

1991: The lease with Triangle X is terminated.

1992: The removal of the buildings begins, the main house, guest house and servants’ cabins are moved. The main house is currently the dining hall at the Teton Science Schools’ Kelly Campus. The servants’ cabins are now located at the Climber’s Ranch on the west side of the park. The “working ranch” buildings still remain.

Text by Samantha Ford, Director of Historical Research and Outreach