Author Archives: Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum Web Administrator

Stories of the outlaws told at museum

One of the things I love about Wyoming is the folklore linked to its topography. If you listen to the rocks in its deserts and the trees in its mountains you will hear their tales, kept like well-guarded secrets.

Yarns abound of John Colter and Jim Bridger in the greater Yellowstone area, Jedediah Smith on South Pass and Chief Washakie in the Wind River country as well as countless remembrances of those who trekked the Oregon, California and Mormon pioneer trails.

There were also those who rode a path of less historic renown but one of fame nevertheless, the Outlaw Trail. Some of its more famous characters like Butch Cassidy have become part of our local lore and are inextricably linked with our sense of place and how we see our state, which is, undeniably, a landscape of the imagination.

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Maud Noble Cabin (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Front Door

 

Maud Noble Cabin: Front Door

 

This cabin was built in 1916, originally on the east side of Cottonwood Creek by Harry Clissold for Maud Noble. Maud had first come to Jackson Hole in 1915, staying at the Bar BC as a dude for the summer. She came from a wealthy family in Philadelphia and was believed to have been 45 to 50 years old when she first arrived to the valley. Like so many before and after her, she decided to stay and reside permanently in the valley. This small three-room home was the ideal size for a single woman. In 1918 Maud had Clissold move the cabin to its current location just south of the buildings at Menor’s Ferry in Moose. The three rooms were converted to serve as two bedrooms and a central living area. The kitchen was removed from the house because Maud took all her meals up at Bill Menor’s house. In this same year she purchased the ferry from Menor and took over operations. She raised the ferry prices to $1.00 for Wyoming residents and $2.00 for anyone else.

Maud lived in this house with a man named Sydney Frederick Sandell. He occupied the second bedroom that was converted from a kitchen. Their partnership was a source of gossip throughout the valley. Maud never did anything to confirm or deny a relationship with Sandell and their story remains a mystery today. Sandell was believed to have a wife “back home.” It was impolite to discuss single men and woman residing in the same home together so Sandell is often left out of Maud’s story. Maud and Frederick continued to live together, however, even after Maud sold the property to the Snake River Land Company in 1929. They purchased a second ranch near Wilson where their living arrangements there are unknown. They both parted ways in 1943 when Maud returned home to Philadelphia to be with family.

 

#2: North elevation

 

Maud Noble Cabin: North Elevation

 

These two windows frame the fireplace for the central living area in the cabin. This room was the site for a very important meeting that occurred on July 23rd, 1923 when Richard Winger, J.R. Jones, J.L. Eynon, Struthers Burt, Horace Carncross, Joe Joffe and Horace Albright gathered around the fire to discuss the future of the Jackson Hole valley. At this time, dude ranching was in its “golden years” as proclaimed by Struthers Burt of the Bar BC Dude Ranch. He and his partner, Horace Carncross had opened the ranch in 1912 as the second dude ranch in the valley. Concerned about the rampant and continuously expanding development, these men were beginning to be concerned about what might happen to the natural landscape if development was left unchecked.

Maud’s role at the meeting is not really known. Some men recall her being there and serving them tea and others don’t remember a woman being present at all. Holding the meeting at her home was no accident – it was considered a good middle ground for those present. Some contend that the participants were worried what might happen if word of the meeting got out so the decision was made to meet outside of town. The meeting was a simple one; no mention of a Yellowstone expansion or any other National Park Service presence in the valley was on the table. They were merely meeting to discuss what might be done to stop some of the less than picturesque commercial development. They decided the only way to do this was to contact their wealthy friends and connections back east in order to purchase the necessary lands for preservation. There was little to no mention of a governing power – however, Albright privately thought that the NPS was the only option. Much is made of this meeting as the first time that Jackson Hole residents turned to federally preserved and regulated lands but this was not mentioned, or even wanted by the locals present. What they did want was to prevent outsiders from buying up the lands from poorer homesteaders looking to leave the valley and to prevent commercial developments of those same holdings.

 

#3: North-west corner

 

Maud Noble House: North-West Corner

 

Maud Noble left her property 1929 when the Snake River Land Company purchased it and the building continued to plat an active role in the Moose community. Several families lived in the cabin after this point. Jim and Viola Budge retrofitted a kitchen into Maud’s bedroom and the open porch and the south of her bedroom was closed for use as a chicken coop. Bob and Fran Carmichael live in the house for a short period of time – they are known for running the Moose Post Office and general store as well as a tackle shop. The house continued to have several short-term residents and an addition was added to the southeast corner of siding meant to look like logs.

Josephine Fabian, the wife of Harold Fabian, who was John D. Rockefeller Jr.’s lawyer for the Snake River Land Company, opened a tea house in the cabin. This was called the Ferry Tea Room and they served light snacks to travelers until 1951. The Fabians also oversaw the rehabilitation of the old ferry and restored much of the Maud Noble cabin to its earlier appearance. The cabin went on to serve as NPS employee housing and was later converted into an interpretive structure, a service it continues today. The porch is now enclosed and the addition with its modern log-siding is still present on the back, but the main cabin still retains much of its original historic character.

 

From our Archives:

 

1994.5038.015

 

Maud Noble cabin in snow.

 

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Moulton Barn (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: T.A. Moulton Barn

 

Moulton Barn

 

Thomas Alma Moulton first homesteaded this property in 1908 as a bachelor. He came over Teton Pass with his brother and a neighbor from Teton Basin, Idaho. The Moultons had moved to Idaho from Utah several decades before. For the first few winters Alma continued to return to the family holdings in Idaho. By 1912 though he had married and he brought his new wife, Lucille, over the pass to permanently settle in the Jackson Hole valley. What remains from his homestead is only a barn, but the barn has created a legacy beyond anything Alma Moulton or his children could have imagined. Billed as the “most photographed barn in America,” this structure had humble beginnings.

Alma Moulton began construction on the central portion in 1913 in order to give his hard-working horses some shelter. The original barn had a flat roof, but it provided a necessary service for the Moulton family. In 1928 the hayloft and steeply pitched gable roof was added. By 1938 and 1939 two shed roofed lean-tos were added to the structure. First the north section for the horses, then the south section for the pigs. The continued addition of separate parts to make the whole gives the barn a unique, but unintentional character that is recognized nationally. Preservation efforts have been undertaken by both the Moulton family and the Grand Teton National Park to ensure that this barn continues to illustrate the trials and successes of homesteading in Jackson Hole.

 

From our Archives:

 

1995.0400.007_EW

 

Moulton Barn, Mormon Row. Some of the 1994 restoration done to the building appears in this picture. There doors were reattached and new shingles were placed on the roof. There used to be a chicken coop and corrals for cattle nearby. (Photographer: Olie Riniker)

 

1995.0400.006

 

Moulton Barn, east view. (Photographer: Olie Riniker)

 

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Andy Chambers Homestead (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Ranch View

 

Andy Chambers Homestead: Ranch View

 

In 1912, the Andy Chambers homestead was the last land claim filed on Mormon Row. Chambers was granted title to his land in 1917 after building a log cabin and stable. He cultivated 20 acres of land and had laid out the logs for a 2-story, four-room home. Because this homestead was the last to be built in the community of Grovont (“Gros Ventre” was determined too hard to spell by the U.S. Postal Service) it is Mormon Row’s best preserved example of a working ranch. Only a portion of the original buildings remain on the other four homesteads that are still visible today.

Mormon Row is an excellent example of the linear villages established by the Mormons in the West. According to their church, villages were to be orderly and built from “permanent” materials such as stone and brick. In Jackson Hole there were several allowances made to these rules, as availability of materials and tools limited the type of construction that could be done. All original homestead cabins were simple logs with sod roofs and packed dirt floors. When the family could afford to construct a larger house, the old cabin was dismantled and the wood was used for a variety of other purposes. Some of it was used for fuel to heat the church and school, some became fencing and some was incorporated into the new house. Nothing was wasted.

 

#2: Granary

 

Andy Chambers Homestead: Granary

 

Built in 1917, the granary is an important part of the agricultural complex. It now stands outside the main fencing area, in a lot used and maintained by the NPS. This area creates a separate space that is now used to graze horses. The granary is an excellent reminder that this ranch was once used for hay production. Until the Kelly flood in 1927, the farms on the northern half of Mormon Row were dry farmed. This meant relying on natural rainfall to support your crops, as there was no reliable access to water. After the flood, Kelly Warm Springs began producing enough water to enable the men on Mormon Row to build a large irrigation ditch to service the community.

Water was a valuable resource in Jackson Hole. It dictated the pattern of settlement in the valley, and often determined whether or not a ranch would be successful. Those with access to good soil like Andy Chambers could survive, but the irrigation ditch was a welcome addition. Ranching on 160 acres was often a difficult task, as the acreage was rarely enough to support the working and residential building complexes along with enough land for raising hay and grazing cattle. Cattle were taken up into the mountains east of the Row during the summer months. When neighbors moved away, their homesteads were quickly purchased by those who remained. The vast grasslands surrounding these homesteads are a reminder of how much land they were able to clear and cultivate. While the sage is creeping back in, the agricultural landscape still dominates the terrain.

 

#3: Homestead House

 

Andy Chambers Homestead: Homestead House

 

This small log and wood shingle house was built in the summer of 1916 by Andy Chambers. It was originally a two-room structure with two unfinished rooms on the second floor. A nursery and enclosed back porch were added to the building after 1945. The house served as a residence for the first few years until the Chambers family built a large, two-story wooden frame house. The construction of the new large house would have shifted the residential complex away from the agricultural infrastructure of the ranch. Most homesteads were divided in this way, with the “working” farm buildings being constructed apart from the residential buildings in order to separate the flow of the different activities. The original log house was converted to a bunkhouse for farm laborers when the Chambers family moved into their larger frame house.

This arrangement would unfortunately be short lived as the frame house burned to the ground in 1936. The old log house once again became the primary residence for the Chambers family. After Andy Chambers’ death in 1945, his son Roy purchased the adjacent Thomas Perry homestead and the residential complex shifted again as the family moved into the Perry home. The original log house now stands in what is a separated fenced yard of sorts, again removed from its association with the agricultural buildings to the north. The outhouse and pump house/garage have joined the log house in the residential complex. Even without the large frame house, this homestead still gives an accurate representation of what the entire Row would have looked like when it was still occupied.

 

#4: Gas/Oil House & Machine Shed

 

Andy Chambers Homestead: Gas House & Machine Shed

 

Both the gas/oil house (right) and the machine shed (left) were constructed in 1917. They were built to operate as contributing members to the working, agricultural portion of the homestead. A fenced area delineates the agricultural buildings from the residential. The machine shed would have been used to store various farming equipment and to protect them from the elements. The shed is supported by a framing system with wooden planks making up the walls. Along with the oil house, these structures were built from less-permanent materials. They were intended to serve a specific purpose and constructed so that they could be easily moved or replaced. Like the houses and barns, these structures were vital to ranch operations. Unlike the houses and barns, they were seen as provisional, easily adaptable to the changing needs of agriculture.

Today, they stand under a very different use, temporary structures now tasked with surviving to serve as a permanent reminder of our past and heritage. They are important resources that require continued maintenance and protection from the elements. Built with the available materials at hand, and were changed very little but remained a source of pride for the resourceful individuals who built them and continued to use them for decades. The buildings on Mormon Row remind us that life here was successful, busy and productive.

 

#5: Door on Garage/Pump house

 

Andy Chambers Homestead: Door on Pump House

 

This door is located on the garage/pump house building that was built in 1917. The pump house stands just northeast of the log home, incorporated into the residential complex by a fence. It was original used for storage space and later was converted into a laundry facility. The earlier homesteads on Mormon Row claim to have been built with lodgepole logs harvested from Timbered Island. It is possible that later homesteads, such as this one, would have also used logs from Shadow Mountain. (The best trees for building construction purposes were on Timbered Island, so it is probable these logs could have come from either location.)

The large spaces between the logs are filled with a material called chinking, often made from clay, mud or cement. Here cement is used, held in place by lathe, a type of construction used later on the Chambers homestead. Earlier log buildings used clay or mud for chinking as access to more modern materials like cement was very limited. These more modern materials are less susceptible to deterioration from the elements, as they are harder to break down than clay. However, continued exposure without maintenance can cause serious damage.

 

From Our Archives

 

scan0001photoshop

 

Built in 1915. Moulton barn in the background (Photographer: Olie Riniker)

 

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Bar BC Ranch (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Guest Cabins

 

Bar BC: Guest Cabins

 

In 1911, Maxwell Struthers Burt and Dr. Horace Carncross formed a partnership while working together at the JY Ranch. They had decided to branch out and start their own dude ranch and over the course of the fall of 1911 they began going out on excursions in their free time to pick out the best place for their new ranch. They settled on an area west of the Snake River, directly on its shores so that the river winds might drive away mosquitos. After they had settled on their location they began preparations to open the ranch for paying guests the following summer.

Over the course of the winter they had hired the  help, ordered supplies for building log cabins and found 15 dudes that would be interested in coming out for the ranch’s debut. When they returned to Jackson Hole in the spring of 1912 they immediately filed on the land and began construction of the guest cabins. They then filed for two adjacent 160-acre parcels. The original intention was not only to begin a dude ranch but also to expand it into a working cattle ranch. By 1916 they had succeeded; the partners had built a total of 18 guest cabins, a laundry facility, 7 smaller cabins, a 20-foot well and a combined total of 46 cultivated acres on both parcels of land. By 1917 they had expanded to 600 acres and 26 ranch buildings capable of housing 25 dudes.

 

#2: Green Door & Window Trim

 

Bar BC: Green Door & Window Trim

 

The Bar BC, named for Struthers Burt and his partner Horace Carncross is credited as being the second dude ranch to open in Jackson Hole. It very quickly became the biggest, and the most well-known. This was in large part due to Burt’s extensive ties to the wealthy families of Philadelphia. Having graduated from Princeton, Burt was well acquainted with exactly the type of clientele he was hoping to host during the summer. Like Burt, whose personal goal had been to become a writer, they were also well-educated, many of them intellectuals like himself. By the late 1920s, the Bar BC could host 50 dudes in 32 rooms.

Prices were steep, but included everything a dude might need during the few weeks or months they were at the ranch. Most dude ranches required references and reservations made well in advance. Dude ranchers were an exclusive group and worked hard to ensure their guests would get along well – they needed to, as living together in close quarters for weeks in a relatively isolated setting imposed certain expectations of conduct and decorum. By 1929 Burt’s writing career was expanding and he was having less time to devote to the dude ranch. He purchased a homestead on Pacific Creek and built the Three Rivers Ranch as his private retreat writing retreat. Burt sold the Bar BC to the Snake River Land Company in 1930 and left by 1935 to pursue his writing career full time.

 

#3: Guest Cabin

 

Bar BC Ranch: Guest Cabin

 

As time passed, the immense popularity of the Bar BC began to work against Burt who had long been a supporter of preserving private lands in the valley for their natural and scenic value. The close proximity to commercial concessions at Jenny Lake meant that Burt soon had front row seats to exactly the type of development he was concerned about. The El-Bo Ranch had set up rodeo grounds and a grandstand on the road leading directly down to the Bar BC. Each time Burt left the ranch he was now greeted with a billboard proclaiming the “Home of the Hollywood Cowboy.” There was more to come: a baseball diamond, cottages for brief overnight tourists, and a host of other buildings and eyesores along Jenny Lake threaten the tranquility and privacy of his more elite retreat.

The purchase of his Three Rivers Ranch far north of this area was no mistake. Burt was very outspoken in his opinions of the Jenny Lake developments and others in the area. Many former dudes from the Bar BC also purchased land in the valley to begin their own dude ranches. No less than twelve dude ranches can trace their origins to a stay at the Bar BC, as could a host of individuals who decided to remain in the valley and homestead. One such pair was Harold Hammond and George Tucker Bispham who met working at the Bar BC and in 1913 opened the White Grass Ranch, the third dude ranch in Jackson Hole.

 

As an active member in the small group of locals who wanted to prevent commercial interests from buying up private lands, Burt was initially against the idea of the National Park Service taking over management of the valley’s most scenic lands, but later, through a friendship with Yellowstone Superintendent Horace Albright, he began to see the National Park Service in a much more favorable light.

 

#4: Window

 

Bar BC Ranch: Window

 

In 1935 Struthers Burt sold his shares to the Bar BC to Irving Corse, the ranch’s last partner after the early death of Carncross. Irving Corse and his wife, Margaretta Sharpless drastically changed the management of the dude ranch. Corse believed that dude ranches should look “rustic” and as a result, ceased most maintenance activities. After having back luck with several fires, Corse had to dismantle the LePage house on the Upper Bar BC Ranch and bring it down to the Lower Bar BC Dude Ranch.

During World War II operations ceased on the ranch due to labor and material shortages. The Corses issued a sublease to Margaretta “Peggy” Frew Conderman (a daughter of the 4 Lazy F Frew family). Peggy Conderman continued to run the Bar BC until her lease ended in 1959 and Margaretta Corse resumed management. In 1986, Margaretta was elderly and ill, ranch operations ceased and Grand Teton National Park assumed management of the dude ranch on her death in 1988.

 

#5: Guest Cabin

 

Bar BC: Guest Cabin

 

The Bar BC is credited with creating the “image” of the dude ranch in Jackson Hole as being ‘rustic but comfortable’. The dude ranch created its own architectural style known as Dude Ranch Vernacular which consisted of a cluster of small guest cabins around a larger main lodge. All buildings were constructed from logs and made to look as if they were true pioneer homestead structures. Earth tones were the predominant colors as the buildings were meant to blend in with and compliment the landscape. The cabins were constructed in specific locations to give each a feeling of privacy while at the same time appearing to be randomly scattered around the property so that one might just turn a corner and chance upon them. The main lodge, barn and corrals were the center of activity.

Dudes would have access to a variety of activities throughout the many weeks they spent at the ranch. Rates were $300-310 per month, or $77 per week. Included in this were meals, the guest or ‘sleeping cabin’ and a saddle horse. The Bar BC was unusual in that they could provide their guests with fresh vegetables as well as dairy items. Hot water was provided in tubs, and guests were expected to “rough it in comfort.” Prices for dude ranches varied throughout the valley, as did the activities they offered. Pack trips were popular and often departed for a week or longer depending on the guest’s preference, and trips up to Yellowstone were sometimes offered for an additional fee.

 

#6: Entrance Gate

 

Bar BC: Entrance Gate

 

Often the biggest obstacle in spending the summer at a dude ranch was distance and travel.   Making the journey from the big cities in the East to the isolated valley of Jackson Hole was often a challenge. During the early years, train service was the only option, and none came directly in to the Jackson Hole valley. The nearest rail lines came to Rock Springs, WY in 1898 (200 miles from Jackson), Lander, WY in 1906 (150 miles from Jackson), Ashton, ID in 1910, Driggs and Victor, ID in 1912. From there, guests would hire stage drivers to take them over the pass into Jackson Hole. The investment in travel time meant that most guests would want to stay for at least week weeks, to make the most of their trip. Dude ranches often required a minimum stay of 2 weeks. Most families opted to stay for a month at a time and became known as the “June, July, August” families according to their preferences. Guests almost always returned, becaming annual visitors – some have lent their names to the cabins they preferred.

The dude ranches and railroads formed a partnership of sorts after the rail lines opened in Victor, Idaho in 1912. The Union Pacific Railroad published a yearly brochure called “Dude Ranches Out West”, listing the dude ranches by geographic location. Jackson Hole filled most of the booklet. Each ranch was listed with the special amenities and activities offered. Railroads provided dude ranches with advertising, and the dude ranches provided the railroads with clientele for long-distance travel. This continued until the late 1940s and early 1950s when the automobile travel became affordable and roads more reliable. Tourism changed in turn; Americans now wanted to see as much as possible in two weeks, rather than travel a long distance to one place. The Jackson Hole dude ranches remained a popular destination, however, particularly for families who had already established a tradition of attending one ranch or another and wanted to associate with those from a similar social background. As a result, road conditions in Jackson Hole improved.

 

From Our Archives:

 

2005.0016.035_Bar B

 

Bar BC Ranch

 

Bar BC corrals & cabins

 

Bar BC Ranch looking into corral from entry gate. Horses and cabins in background.

 

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Luther Taylor Homestead (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Taylor Cabin

Luther Taylor Homestead: Taylor CabinOriginally established in 1916 by John Erwin, the Luther Taylor homestead has a long history that is often overlooked – overshadowed by its use as a movie set for film Shane in 1953.Luther Taylor purchased the property in 1923 and built this homestead cabin. While not much of the building remains today, it has been largely unused since the movie was made. Nevertheless, this is one of the most important historic resources in the Jackson Hole valley. This is the most intact original homestead in the valley, with all of the original buildings still standing. There are three on the property and one large depression in the soil that suggests a fourth may have stood here. On most homesteads in the area, the original cabins were taken apart and reincorporated into larger, more impressive cabins. This was not the case on the Luther Taylor homestead.

The three buildings that remain have not been moved or altered, weathering more than 60 years of deferred maintenance and abandonment. Taylor sold the property to Andy Chambers and his son Roy in 1948. The Chambers family used the land to add to their ranch and rented out the buildings for a few years. By the time Paramount Pictures came to survey Jackson Hole for Shane, the Luther Taylor ranch had been unused for a several years. The buildings were largely unchanged after the movie shoot, retaining much of their original appearance. As one of the most intact of the valley’s original homesteads, they are now a particularly important historical and cultural resource.

 

#2: Taylor Cabin

 

Luther Taylor Homestead: Cabin

 

Despite being an early homestead cabin, extra care was taken to make this a home beyond the usual log wall and dirt floor construction. While the main house did have a wooden plank and sod roof, the interior was intentionally given extra attention in order to create a good, clean home. The round logs were hewn with an ax to create a smooth flat surface. This was then coated with newspaper for insulation and whitewashed. Over the paint, layers of wallpaper were applied to create a light and bright atmosphere – all unusual steps taken to create a comfortable and homey atmosphere in an early homestead.

Today, only the ax marks can be seen, and the original floor joists are the only remaining component of the designed interior. The cabin sits precariously on a few remaining stones, which act as piers. The stones were previously part of a connected, dry-laid stone foundation. This type of construction was clearly meant to be permanent, and the extra care taken for the interior of the house suggests that Taylor may never have had any intentions of building a better home later on.

 

#3: Taylor Cabin

 

Luther Taylor Cabin: Taylor Cabin

 

The Luther Taylor cabin is also remarkable for its unusual construction materials and Taylor employed the classic resourcefulness of the valley’s early homesteader. Most chinking materials used stone or sand as aggregate to hold together loose clay or mud. Taylor did not, however, appear to have access to these types of materials, as the chinking remnants found on this cabin used tiny pieces of chopped wood as aggregate. It is unclear if this was an intentional use of leftover building materials mixed into the mud chinking, or if Taylor was actually without a more sufficient material for his home. It does appear, however, that it was a very successful mix as large chunks are still visible between the logs more than sixty years after the first application. While other chinking material can be found on the cabin, witness to repairs made by unknown individuals a long time ago, the majority is the mud and wood combination originally applied by Luther Taylor.

 

From our Archives:

 

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The old Taylor cabin on the Gros Ventre; Lena Taylors’ parent’s cabin.

 

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Lucas Fabian Ranch (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Geraldine’s Cabin

 

Lucas Fabian Homestead: Geraldine's Cabin

 

Built in 1913, the same year that Geraldine Lucas filed for her 160-acre homestead parcel, this was Lucas’s primary residence. Geraldine was a fascinating individual who chose to spend her retirement living alone on her ranch in Jackson Hole. She followed two brothers and a sister to the valley after a full career as a music teacher in New York City where she taught upon graduating from Oberlin College in 1898. She had one son, Russell, from an unhappy marriage that ended in divorce. Russell left home and joined the Coast Guard at a young age. Having nothing to tie her to the City, Geraldine decided to move across the country by herself. She spent a year surveying the valley before she decided on the tract of land directly underneath the Grand Teton.

After many winters gazing up at the Grand, Geraldine Lucas began to think of it as “her mountain.” She was aware of the successful expeditions to scale it, many of which departed from her own property. After hearing that a 16-year-old by the name of Paul Petzoldt had successfully made it to the summit and back twice, she called upon Petzoldt, determined to convince him that he should lead her to up to the top of her mountain. In his book Teton Tales, Petzoldt recounts that first conversation with Geraldine, whose eccentricities were now well known: “I had been warned by some of the locals that Geraldine was difficult to get along with and hard to understand, but I found her friendly and her great intelligence stimulating. She had seen the Grand Teton in all its moods and had long had a great desire to reach its summit.” Whether it was because Petzoldt could offer to assist Geraldine in achieving her cherished goal, or whether they were simply well-suited to each other, he never had a difficult time getting along with her. Upon reaching the summit of the Grand on August 2, 1924, Petzoldt pushed 58-year old Geraldine ahead of him so that she could be the first in their party to reach the top. As he remembered, “I don’t think she often broke through her protected personality, but in that moment when she threw her arms around me with a soft sob, I sensed the real Geraldine Lucas, an intelligent, loving woman who had elected for some reason to leave most of society behind.”

 

#2: Russell’s Cabin

 

Lucas Fabian Homestead: Russell's Cabin

 

After a two-year marriage and one child, Geraldine left her husband to return home to her family. Most young women in 1887 would not have been allowed to return home after leaving a husband – if they were able to leave at all. About a decade later, her estranged husband filed for divorce and Geraldine was granted sole custody of her son. In another unusual step towards reclaiming her identity, she reclaimed her maiden name, making sure to use it for her son’s surname as well. Despite being close when he was young, Russell’s teenage years brought strife between mother and son. Geraldine wanted him to become educated as she had been – by attending college. He, on the other hand, had other ideas and ran away from home to join the Coast Guard. They later reconciled, but it was clear Geraldine had reared a son as headstrong and independent as she was.

Russell would visit his mother about once a year, although never for more than a week -with a full-time career in the Coast Guard, he rarely had the time off.  Despite the strained teenage years, he still cared for his mother. He didn’t, however, care for her isolated home. She built him his own cabin on her property in 1930 in an effort to entice him to stay longer and more often. He never took her up on the offer and the cabin remained empty. He did, however, make sure she was well cared for, regularly sending her money – and even a team of Alaskan malamutes and a sled to allow her greater mobility during the long winter months. When Geraldine died from heart failure on August 12, 1938, Russell returned to the homestead for the last time. Her cremated remains were interred under a large boulder that sits just beneath the Grand Teton, on the land to which she felt she belonged. The boulder is still there today, marked by a plaque that bears her name and the years “1865-1938”; Russell appreciated his mother’s love for her homestead but never shared it.

 

#3: Garage

 

Lucas Fabian Homestead: Garage

 

Having grown up in a homesteading family in frontier Nebraska, Geraldine was well aware of what was needed to live and survive in such a place. She was well suited for the valley and the valley to her. Despite the isolation of Jackson Hole’s winters, Geraldine had a busy social life in the summer. She preferred to visit friends and keep her home as a private retreat. As news traveled of her unconventional life, she quickly became a polarizing figure. Rumors spread that she was a rough, irritable woman who lacked social grace and so lived alone. Those who knew her well held the opposite point of view claiming that, while she was indeed a woman with blunt, forceful opinions on many subjects, she was also well educated. Geraldine had equally vocal views on the people she liked and trusted. Those who understood her eccentricities and knew her to be caring friend, affectionately refered to her as “Aunt Ger.”

Another unusual element to Geraldine’s life in the valley was her methods of transportation. In the winter her son had provided her with a team of Alaskan malamutes and sled. Her sled is on display today at the transportation barn near Menor’s Ferry. During the summer months, she had an even more unusual method of transportation. The garage was built in 1925 to house Geraldine’s 1924 Buick touring car. Cars were extremely rare in the valley in those days as the roads weren’t kept in great shape and most creeks did not have bridges – despite her express desire to be alone and enjoy a quiet retirement, Geraldine certainly made an impression on her neighbors.

 

From Our Archives:

 

1958.0148.001

 

Geraldine Lucas standing outdoors at Lupine Meadows near her homestead for which patent was issued June 19, 1922

 

scan0001

 

Geraldine Lucas’ cabin near Jenny Lake, to right of large cabin built for her son. In distance is homestead cabin of Naomi Colwell

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Hunter Hereford Ranch (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Barn/Out buildings

 

Hunter-Hereford Ranch: Barn/Out Buildings

 

The Hunter Hereford Ranch is named for William and Eileen Hunter who purchased the property in 1944. They ran what became known as a “hobby ranch.” These were ranches owned by individuals who had established a successful career and were now looking to invest in their retirement. The Hunters did not rely on their Hereford ranch for income, but enjoyed the pursuits of owning a working cattle ranch. The Hunters owned 520 acres, purchasing adjacent ranches and properties. They quickly began construction on architect-designed structures, which included a barn and house.

The cattle were supplied by Earl and Gerritt Hardeman, known nationally for their purebred Hereford cows. The Hunter ranch ran purebred stock until 1955 when it switched to a commercial operation. Originally the Hardemans were solely responsible for stocking the Hunter ranch. After William Hunter’s early death in 1951, Eileen continued to own the ranch until 1957 when she sold it to Grand Teton National Park under a life estate. Management of the cattle operations fell to their year-round caretaker John Anderson. When Eileen Hunter died in 1985, the Park took over ownership and management of all the buildings. In 1992 several buildings were removed. The large ranch residence now serves as a dining hall at the Teton Science Schools’ Kelly Campus. Staff and guest cabins are now located at the Climber’s Ranch.

 

#2: Williams Homestead

 

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The Hunter Hereford Ranch was original known as the homestead of James Williams. Williams filed a homestead claim on the 160-acre property in 1908. He continued to expand his land holdings and cultivated oats and alfalfa after he acquired water rights to nearby irrigation ditches. In 1931 Williams sold his property to Preston Redmond whose family owned and ranched the land until the Hunters purchased it in 1944.

This homestead house features a hipped roof, a rare architectural feature that forms the original, central portion of the home. The main portion was built in 1908 by James Williams. The hipped roof, a laid stone foundation and a brick chimney demonstrate Williams’ clear understanding of building construction techniques. It is clear from these elements that this homestead cabin was meant to be permanent. Usually original homestead cabins were small, squat and hastily built. They were almost always replaced later when better materials and time were available. The hipped roof, use of permanent materials and experienced building construction tells a different story.  The north and east wings were constructed in 1945 when the Hunters began to make changes to the homestead.

 

#3: Barn

 

Hunter-Hereford Ranch: Barn

 

Designed by architect Eber Piers from Ogden, Utah, this barn was built in 1947. The Hunters wanted a barn that would reflect the local vernacular architecture, and this barn was loosely designed to match the Hardeman barn in Wilson. The materials and general feeling were also loosely based on the barns on nearby Mormon Row. While this barn was supposed to reflect those of the homesteading era in the early 1900s, the proportions are those of a modern structure. The use of log coursing for the first floor was used intentionally to match natural materials used by the homesteaders. The poured concrete foundation, however, is a feature found in more permanent structures. (Previously, barns might have had a simple dry laid stone foundation with dirt or wooden floors.)

The barn’s impressive ‘gambrel’ roof supports a very large hayloft, encompassing one and a half stories of the structure. A highly articulated truss system supports the roof, going far beyond the technological limitations of the barns at Mormon Row. This barn is also unusual in its interior features as well. Electricity and plumbing are elements that weren’t found in most houses at the time. In addition, there was an interior stairwell that provided access to the hayloft, rather than a ladder. The hayloft opens to two separate doors, another unusual element. This allows for the creation of three separate doorways on the east elevation: one on the ground level with a sliding track, a second directly above this on another sliding track and the third which opens on hinges directly under the eaves. The extremely large hayloft actually had a dual purpose. Dances were regularly held on this level, and the interior stairwell was meant to allow easier access to the second floor for these community events.

 

#4: Barn door

 

Hunter-Hereford Ranch: Barn Door

 

This door is located on the east elevation of the barn and was used during the summer months. The solid door, which is currently closing the entrance to the barn, would have been taken off the sliding hinges to allow it to slide into place. A matching set of doors was located on the west elevation; today, however, just the solid door remains. This setup would have provided the barn with a source of fresh air since the tight log coursing and board and batten siding under the eaves would have prevented a steady flow of air. All barns, especially those housing cattle, require a good amount of ventilation in order to maintain a healthy environment for the animals. Two large ventilators are also located on the roof, to provide air for the building, especially for the hayloft.

The design of the barn relays a lot of information that separates it from others in the valley. This is a structure built with the intent to impress the neighbors, while at the same time attempting to appear understated. The entire structure was built at one time, rather than in parts as would have normally been dictated by a limited cash flow. The Hunters did not have those problems, and their higher economic status enabled them to afford such an impressive center piece for their operations. The barns on Mormon Row have a much less dominating presence on the land, mostly due to their varied construction technology and time frames. Nonetheless, the Hunter barn is a very important, early example of a different type of ranch built for a different purpose.

 

#5: Barn window

 

Hunter-Hereford Ranch: Barn Window

 

The barn at the Hunter Ranch was unusual in the amount of windows incorporated into the design. The purpose was to provide the interior with the maximum amount of light – it also provided the building with many more areas of ventilation than was normally the case. The windows are unusual in their use of iron muntins (also called “glazing or sash bars”); iron would generally not have been a material unavailable to the homesteaders of this era. The use of permanent materials like iron and concrete and the addition of plumbing and electricity meant that this was considered a modern structure. Despite the use of log coursing and board and batten siding, the sheer size of the structure and number of windows separates this barn from its vernacular counterparts.

These unusual elements help to tell a different type of story of a different type of rancher. The Hunter Ranch was one of the very first hobby ranches built in the valley and this particular building is a classic representation of a ranch built for an extended retirement “vacation” – one of the few examples left in the valley.

 

#6: Boarded Homestead Window

 

Hunter-Hereford Ranch: Boarded Homestead Window

 

This window is located on the original 1908 homestead house, which became the foreman’s residence when the Hunters purchased the property in 1944. While the building is closed up for protection against the elements, it was once central to the working and agricultural portion of the ranch. Built by James Williams, it served continuously as a residence until Grand Teton National Park acquired the property after Eileen Hunter died in 1985 and her life estate ended. It was later occupied by John Anderson and his family for the duration of the Hunter ownership.

In 1969, The Wild Country used the Hunter Hereford Ranch as a movie set. The film crew made minor and easily reversible changes to the building facades that would be visible in certain shots. These changes, which were never been removed by the Hunters or the National Park Service, can still be seen on the buildings. The north elevation of the barn, hay shed, chicken coop and small barn were converted to appear as more romanticized versions of what western buildings were thought to be. The hay shed in particular was modified. The north elevation of this structure was enclosed with clapboard siding with Greek Revival architectural elements around the windows. This was done in order to give the appearance of a church, despite there being no church on the property. Wooden planking covers the north elevation of these buildings, hiding their original wooden shingles. (The barn’s north elevation was covered with the same planking but that has been removed.)

 

From Our Archives:

 

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Garrit Hardeman standing outdoors in front of Hereford Ranch Barn. Barn built by Colonel Mosley of Los Angeles. The H Bar R brand belonged to Fernie and Dorothy Hubbard. (Photographer: Guy Bush)

 

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4 Lazy F (Landscapes of Loss)

#1: Fence

The 4 Lazy F, like so many other dude ranches in Jackson Hole, can trace its roots back to the Bar BC. Families and individuals who visited the Bar BC often returned annually. Some would set their sights beyond the ranch in the Snake River bottoms and purchase parcels of property to begin their own dude operations. Both Bryant Mears and his sister, Frances Mears of the STS Ranch,  as well as the Frew family first ventured to the valley to stay at the Bar BC. Bryant Mears initially chose the location for his Sun Star Ranch just south of the Bar BC because it offered the same scenic views of both river and Tetons. The Frew family saw this location as ideal for their private family ranch and purchased the property from Bryant’s brother, Edward in 1927. They transformed the property into a true dude ranch; they built sleeping cabins, a main lodge and expanded the barn and corrals for horses. Guests attended the ranch by ‘invitation-only’ from the Frew family until 1950 when it transferred to Emily Frew Oliver who opened it to paying guests.

 

#2: Barn

4 Lazy F Ranch: Barn

 

When the Frews purchased the ranch and renamed it the 4 Lazy F, it had already been named the Sun Star Ranch. Bryant Mears filed for a 160 acre homestead claim on the property in 1914. He spent the next three years proving up on the ranch, building a log house, barn, and associated corrals. These structures became part of the working ranch, and are purposefully separate from the main lodge and sleeping cabin area. The barn faces south to provide maximum sun for light and warmth in winter. The Frews did not live here year-round, but they hired a caretaker who remained through the winter who was responsible for general ranch chores and maintenance. During the summer months the caretaker was responsible for irrigating the fields and raising enough hay to last throughout the long, cold months ahead.

 

 

#3: Entrance Gate

 

F Lazy F Ranch: Entrance Gate

 

The view west from the entrance gate at the 4 Lazy F Ranch located near Moose offers a commanding view of the Grand Teton. This gate is about a mile down a private road past the Park Headquarters building. The ranch is named for four members of the Frew family: William and Margaretta Frew owned and operated this property as a private family ranch from 1927 to 1950. Their daughter, Emily Frew Oliver, made the decision to open the ranch up to paying guests in the summer of 1950. In 1967 Emily sold the ranch to the Grand Teton National Park under a life estate lease. The ranch finally closed to paying guests in the mid-1990s. Emily continued to invite family and friends to the ranch until 2006 when she voluntarily terminated her life estate. Property management then transferred to Grand Teton National Park.

 

#4: Corral

 

4 Lazy F: Corral

 

The caretaker’s cabin, barn and corrals are considered part of the “working ranch” that was kept separate from the “residential” dude ranch. This was a common practice on most dude ranches, from which the architectural style known as “Dude Ranch Vernacular” developed. Careful consideration was given to the placement of buildings. Sleeping cabins were typically arranged in small clusters around the larger, main dining lodge. The working elements of the ranch that carried less than scenic sights and smells were kept downwind or in an adjacent location.

Someone had to remain on the property during the winter months to maintain the structures and make sure the buildings could open on time for the summer season. The caretaker was also responsible for general ranch chores such as haying, saddling and cleaning horses and maintaining the livestock. In the later years of operation, Emily Oliver’s sons would help the caretaker with these chores.

 

#5: Window reflection

 

4 Lazy F: Window Reflection

 

The 4 Lazy F Dude Ranch was one of few dude ranches in the valley which catered to short-term reservations. Emily Oliver could regularly be seen outside the Moose Post Office asking tourists if they needed overnight accommodations. Generally, the minimum stay at a dude ranch was around two weeks. The 4 Lazy F offered accommodations for just one night or up to a few weeks, depending on the visitor’s needs. Just $10.00 per night included meals and “double bedroom cabins with bathrooms and electricity”. In “Season 1” (July 1 to September 30) Ranch activities included “riding, swimming, fishing along streams or boat fishing on the Snake River”. Pack trips to Yellowstone National Park could also be arranged. (“Dude Ranches Out West” published by the Union Pacific Railroad, c.1960).

 

From Our Archives:

 

4 lazy f gate

4 Lazy F Front Gate (Photographer: Olie Riniker)

 

4 lazy f barn

 

4 Lazy F Barn and Coral (Photographer: Olie Riniker)

 

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Elk Ranch (Landscapes of Loss)

#1 Corrals

Elk Ranch: Corrals

 

The original corrals at the Elk Ranch were constructed in the 1920s, and were continually modified to meet changing needs until the 1970s. There were once two set of these corrals, as well as the L shape barn/sheds to which they were attached. Today, only this set remains. These particular corrals were last used by the Mead family for their cattle ranch in 2000. They have been unused and almost unchanged since that point. Also present are the original chute and cattle squeeze.

The Elk Ranch was the most successful cattle ranch in the valley, originally owned by Josiah “Si” Ferrin who quickly earned the nickname “the cattle baron of Jackson Hole.” Ferrin purchased the ranch from D.E. Skinner in 1920; Skinner had purchased the property from the original homesteader, Otto Kusche who first filed on the land in 1909. Under Ferrin, the ranch would expand from Kusche’s original 160-acre filing to more than 3,600 acres by 1928. Ferrin ran over 2,000 head of cattle on the ranch and had several successful businesses on the side including a saw mill, freight and timber hauling business, and a lucrative contract to provide beef for the dam workers at Moran. The saw mill, run by Ferrin’s son Leonard, provided the Menor’s Ferry bridge with timber in 1927. Despite having a successful cattle operation, Ferrin was not immune to the agricultural depression in the 1920s. He became involved in the efforts to relieve ranchers of financial pressure and sold his property to the Snake River Land Company in 1929. Under Rockefeller, operations at the Elk Ranch continued and the Ferrin family took their saw mill and moved into Jackson.

 

#2  Implement Shed Interior

Elk Ranch: Implement Shed Interior

 

 

The implement shed was constructed in 1940 by the Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. (formerly the Snake River Land Company). This wood frame building originally had an ell that would have made it L-shaped, but this was removed in 1959. The sliding door that covered this opening is missing. The shed was built during a period of expansion of the Elk Ranch under John D. Rockefeller Jr.’s management. He was providing the ranch with much-needed upgrades, which included the Uhl Reservoir. The reservoir is fed by Spread Creek and provided the ranch with an exceedingly valuable resource. Special note was taken in the next few years that despite having a drought, the reservoir had enough water to continue to irrigate the hay fields. This was important – the fields were supplying both the Elk Refuge in Jackson and Rockefeller’s planned Jackson Hole Wildlife Park near Moran, as well cattle and horses that wintered at the ranch.

Due to its advantageous location, excellent soil and water sources, the Elk Ranch was allowed to continue operations after its purchase by the Snake River Land Company. The ranch wasn’t considered to be in a prime natural area, or blocking mountain views so it was allowed to stay. An additional reason it was allowed to continue was the fact that the land had already been changed considerable due to the continued ranching activities and irrigation. The State of Wyoming required landowners with water rights to continue to use them or they were considered forfeited. Rockefeller recognized the ranch as a highly valuable economic resource for both the valley and the state and worked to keep it functional.

 

#3: Bunk House Roof

 

Elk Ranch: Bunk House Roof

 

These wooden shingles are located on the bunkhouse which was moved to the property in 1940. The building was brought in with a few other buildings meant to provide housing for ranch hands. By this time, the Snake River Land Company had become the Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. which continued to run the Elk Ranch as an active cattle ranch. This property has the distinction of being one of the only properties in the Snake River Land Company’s purchasing plan that was kept intact and operational. Most others were removed or moved entirely in order to restore the landscape back to its natural condition.

Rockefeller had two agendas for purchasing the homesteads and ranches in the valley. One was to restore important natural areas and the other was to prevent commercial development. A primary, but often forgotten role was to “preserve the ‘Old West’ character of the valley.” This included keeping the Elk Ranch operational so that visitors might see the activities that had become synonymous with the West. Serious discussions were had about building a dude ranch on the bench above the Elk Ranch in order for visitors to get a first-hand view of cattle ranching. Action was never taken on these plans, and so the dude ranch was never built. Rockefeller ensured that the Elk Ranch could continue to operate by making it highly valuable in the services it provided. Not only did it supply hay to the National Elk Refuge, but beef and dairy products to the various lodges in the valley. Horses from area dude ranches were also wintered on the ranch.

 

#4: Barn/Shed/Corrals

 

Elk Ranch: Barn/Shed/Corrals

 

This structure, sometimes referred to as the “L Shed,” was constructed around 1920 during the Ferrin ownership. There were two of these buildings present, each with their own corral systems. The north elevations of both buildings were open, and attached directly to the corrals. The western ell provided barn space, while the portion stretching towards the east was an open shed. The barn, accessed by a central door, split into north and south portions. The north side was presumably a stable, apparently without separate stalls. The south side was most likely a granary with a feeding trough attached to one wall. It is unknown what the enclosed barn space would have been used for in the building that is no longer present.

Both the Ferrins and the Jackson Hole Preserve, Inc. kept horses here during the winter. After the property was purchased by the Snake River Land Company, the Ferrins continued to winter their horses at the ranch. Josiah “Si” Ferrin is thought to be the first to bring oats and white-faced cattle into the Jackson Hole valley and the State of Wyoming. His ranch was the largest cattle ranch in the valley, eventually amassing more than 3,600 acres for hay and grazing. The cattle were usually trailed up Togwotee Pass to summer pasture in May and brought back to the ranch in October or November. This practice ensured that the largest amount of land could be put towards hay production. It is estimated that it took 25 men and 50 horses almost 25 days to complete the hay harvest each fall.

 

#5: Barn/Shed Window

 

Elk Ranch: Barn/Shed Window

 

This window is located on the “L Shed” at the Elk Ranch. Originally built in 1920, the building was constructed by Josiah “Si” Ferrin and his family. The Ferrins ran the Elk Ranch until 1929 when the Snake River Land Company purchased the property. Si Ferrin had been an active member in the small group of valley residents who were concerned about the expansion of commercial development in the Jackson Hole valley. Specifically, they were concerned that wealthy individuals from out of state would begin buying up homesteads with the intent of creating large subdivisions and profiting off of the high amount of tourist traffic beginning to come through the valley.

Partnering with local rancher Pierce Cunningham, Ferrin wrote and distributed a petition throughout the valley calling for federal acquisition of private ranch lands. The goal was to help those who could no longer support themselves with their ranches and prevent them from selling to buyers with plans for expansion. A total of 97 ranchers signed the petition in 1925 and by 1927 the Snake River Land Company appeared in the valley, purchasing lands from those unable to pay property taxes or looking to move on. Some sold their properties and moved away, others leased their ranches back and continued to work the land, without their previous financial pressures. This worked well for John D. Rockefeller, Jr. who was secretly backing the company. It also meant that water rights remained intact and that certain properties such as the Elk Ranch could continue to be economically successful.

 

#6: Shop Building Door

Elk Ranch: Shop Building Door

 

Built in 1920, the shop building is part of the Josiah “Si” Ferrin ownership on the Elk Ranch. Today this building is still in use by the National Park Service for storage purposes. The grassy fields originally cleared and cultivated by many different homesteaders are still visible. The land was purchased by Si Ferrin between 1919 and 1928. They were transferred as a whole to the Snake River Land Company in 1929 and eventually the Grand Teton National Park in 1950. Horses can be seen grazing in these areas today.

When the land was incorporated into the expansion of Grand Teton National Park in 1950, several families held grazing permits within the new park boundaries. Special legislation was passed to allow these permits to continue, despite being on National Park lands. The new leases were only granted to those currently in possession of grazing permits in 1950. They allowed these families to continue to graze their cattle on Park lands “for twenty five years plus the lifetime of a selected heir.” Many of the permits were transferred to the lands on the Elk Ranch and in nearby areas in the Buffalo Valley. This area was considered a better location for these activities because they were less visible to park visitors. Since the area had already been in use as a ranch, it was reasoned that there wouldn’t be any further damage to natural areas elsewhere in the park. As of 2010, only one lease remained for grazing use on Park lands.

 

From our Archives:

 

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1st Caterpillar in Jackson Hole, Elk Ranch

 

 

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